July is a time to truly look at your lawn and watch for fungus and insects. With the strong heat and humid conditions of June and July, fungus will start to grow on your lawn and, if caught early enough, it can be easily controlled. In addition to fungus, this is also the time that preventative measures should be done for insect control. Fungus is most active at 80-90 degree temperatures when the grass leaves stay wet for a long time. You will notice circular patches on your lawn. If the brown areas get larger, then you know you have a problem. If you catch it before it gets to 9” in diameter, then you might be able to get it under control. If you wait any longer, then it will become more difficult. How to correct the area? Use a fungicide. But the more important part is – early detection because prevention is easier than curative. Damaging bugs like the Chinch bug or the Grub are currently lying in wait and it is up to you and your local Lawn Care expert to control this infestation before it begins. Chinch bugs feed on the sap of the grass plants. They reside in the thatch area and feed on the lower leaf sheaths. Damaged areas start as small, irregular patches which enlarge. They are most damaging in open, sunny areas, starting in July or August. What to look for:
Grubs also need to be controlled at this time of year or they, too, will destroy your lawn. Once you see the damage done by grubs, it is too late. So the best way to deal with them is to do a preventative control application. You will want to do this in late June or early July before they become adults. The timing of this application is very critical. Grubs are the larvae of Japanese beetles. They feed on the root system of your grass. When they pupate, they emerge as adult Japanese beetles. Watch for fungus and, if noticed, have a fungicide applied to your property. Spray for grubs and chinch bugs as a preventative measure so you do not have damage done in the summer. Glenn Koleda, our Lawn Care expert, states that "Lawn care is just like going to the dentist on a regular basis. Preventative maintenance is needed on both for them to remain healthy." Call us and we would be happy to take care of your Lawn Care needs. Glenn has extensive knowledge and training and can come discuss the needs of your lawn, trees and shrubs. Email or call us today. |
Friday, July 1, 2011
Brown Spots on Lawn – Homeowner Beware
Friday, May 13, 2011
Maintaining Perennials
Year In And Year Out, These Special Plants Provide An Abundance Of Joy
Start by assessing the status of your garden. Do you have lots of spreading plants that seem invasive? Do you have plants that are bushy and seem to be growing out of control? Are some plants that used to grow well growing poorly now? Does it seem that weeds are taking over? Are there plants you would like to replace? Look at the individual plants as well as the overall garden.
An easy factor to fix is the need for fertilizer. Most plants benefit from regular feedings during the growing season. Use a good balanced fertilizer in one of several forms. Controlled release pellets (called prills) and the water-soluble types that are either mixed with water and sprinkled on or are used in a special dispenser attached to a watering hose are most popular. A good balanced fertilizer often does wonders to increase growth and enhance flowering. Remember compost is also a source of nutrients.
A fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number) will increase the growth of foliage, while a fertilizer high in phosphorous (the middle number) is good for root growth and flowering and is important in cell division. Using a fertilizer high in phosphorous but lower in nitrogen will help flowering species reach their full potential without focusing too much on leaf growth. Most perennials end up spindly and unattractive when high-nitrogen fertilizers are applied.
Assess which plants need to be pruned. Some plants need pruning to control spreading and guide new shoot growth. Some plants need pruning to refresh and increase new growth or to remove old or damaged parts. Either way, the process is the same. Decide which shoots need to be cut, and figure out how far back the plant should be pruned. This can be purely aesthetic, based on your preference, or it can be based on where the damage occurs on the plant. Find the closest branching point (called a node) just below the area of damage or overgrowth, and make a 45-degree cut just above the branching point. Don't cut too near the node, or the cut may not heal; about ¼ inch above the joint is fine. If there is no branch, find a leaf with an intact axillary bud (the little bud between the top of the leaf and the stem of the plant) and make the cut just above the leaf. The bud will "break" and form another branch there. For smaller plants or herbaceous (not woody) growth, a cut may not be necessary. Many times, pinching off the extra branch is enough.
Another aspect of perennial care is weeding. Much of work that should be done when installing the bed is removing perennial weeds, using a weed mat and mulching well. However, even a well-planned garden can fall prey to pesky weeds. Hand weeding the garden is most effective. It's vital to pull weeds before they mature so that they don't take needed nutrients from the perennials and leave seeds in the garden. Perennials have enough work growing without competing with weeds for food, water and space. Weed seeds can lay dormant in soil for long periods before germinating. Take care not to leave any sections of the weeds in the soil, for they will often grow back from small pieces of root or other plant material.
After the weeding is done, consider the need for additional mulch. Mulch upkeep is one of the best maintenance practices available to keep a perennial garden healthy. Recommended mulches include many organic materials, from pine straw to shredded pine bark and compost. A layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep is recommended for most plants. The actual depth will depend on cost, personal preference and availability.
Why do plants need mulch? There are several reasons -- weed control and reducing the need for watering, and temperature control for root protection. By covering the soil, mulch prevents the water in the soil from evaporating as quickly. By maintaining the moisture level in soil and providing insulation from hot and cold weather, mulch can help prevent extremes in air temperature from affecting the roots. Mulch also can protect the leaves of plants from soil washing or bouncing onto them. Another function of mulch is purely decorative. The garden simply looks better when the mulch is in place, framing the plants and providing an even, dark attractive background. Maintaining mulch is one of the best and easiest ways to help your garden grow.
For plants spreading out of control, consider giving them more room by dividing them. This requires separating the plants by digging them up and pulling apart the plants and roots. This leaves you with intact plants ready to put back into the soil. You can divide most perennials every 3 to 5 years if desired, or you can leave them a little longer if they have room to thrive without crowding another species. Some plants may benefit from thinning, especially those that are overcrowded or prone to rot in the rain. Some silver-foliaged species are especially prone to rot. Wet, thick foliage tightly packed together will increase the tendency for disease problems.
Flowering is another area where your perennials might need help. Many species will re-bloom if the old flowers are pulled off. This process is known as "deadheading." It allows the plant to re-bloom by preventing the flower from setting seed, which is the plant's goal for the season. It's important to deadhead flowers as soon as they fade. Some gardeners find this a rewarding way to spend time in the garden every afternoon. An added benefit of deadheading is the improved appearance of the plant. Removing the spent blossoms rejuvenates the garden's fresh look.
Fortunately, perennials are forgiving, and the plants seem to always bounce back. Don't worry about "getting it perfect" as you work on your technique. Try your hand at some of these methods and see how well your garden grows!
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
| While most seasoned gardeners and nurseries alike will recommend a mix of annuals and perennials in your garden, the task can seem quite daunting. As for the perennials (plants that grow back every year), questions abound. Where to start? What plants to select? How to plant? But not to worry. With a few simple techniques, you'll be able to sit back and watch your perennials flourish. "Perennials are a true joy for any gardener," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "To see the fruits of your labor literally come to life each spring is something very special." |  |
Start by assessing the status of your garden. Do you have lots of spreading plants that seem invasive? Do you have plants that are bushy and seem to be growing out of control? Are some plants that used to grow well growing poorly now? Does it seem that weeds are taking over? Are there plants you would like to replace? Look at the individual plants as well as the overall garden.
An easy factor to fix is the need for fertilizer. Most plants benefit from regular feedings during the growing season. Use a good balanced fertilizer in one of several forms. Controlled release pellets (called prills) and the water-soluble types that are either mixed with water and sprinkled on or are used in a special dispenser attached to a watering hose are most popular. A good balanced fertilizer often does wonders to increase growth and enhance flowering. Remember compost is also a source of nutrients.
A fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number) will increase the growth of foliage, while a fertilizer high in phosphorous (the middle number) is good for root growth and flowering and is important in cell division. Using a fertilizer high in phosphorous but lower in nitrogen will help flowering species reach their full potential without focusing too much on leaf growth. Most perennials end up spindly and unattractive when high-nitrogen fertilizers are applied.
Assess which plants need to be pruned. Some plants need pruning to control spreading and guide new shoot growth. Some plants need pruning to refresh and increase new growth or to remove old or damaged parts. Either way, the process is the same. Decide which shoots need to be cut, and figure out how far back the plant should be pruned. This can be purely aesthetic, based on your preference, or it can be based on where the damage occurs on the plant. Find the closest branching point (called a node) just below the area of damage or overgrowth, and make a 45-degree cut just above the branching point. Don't cut too near the node, or the cut may not heal; about ¼ inch above the joint is fine. If there is no branch, find a leaf with an intact axillary bud (the little bud between the top of the leaf and the stem of the plant) and make the cut just above the leaf. The bud will "break" and form another branch there. For smaller plants or herbaceous (not woody) growth, a cut may not be necessary. Many times, pinching off the extra branch is enough.
Another aspect of perennial care is weeding. Much of work that should be done when installing the bed is removing perennial weeds, using a weed mat and mulching well. However, even a well-planned garden can fall prey to pesky weeds. Hand weeding the garden is most effective. It's vital to pull weeds before they mature so that they don't take needed nutrients from the perennials and leave seeds in the garden. Perennials have enough work growing without competing with weeds for food, water and space. Weed seeds can lay dormant in soil for long periods before germinating. Take care not to leave any sections of the weeds in the soil, for they will often grow back from small pieces of root or other plant material.
After the weeding is done, consider the need for additional mulch. Mulch upkeep is one of the best maintenance practices available to keep a perennial garden healthy. Recommended mulches include many organic materials, from pine straw to shredded pine bark and compost. A layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep is recommended for most plants. The actual depth will depend on cost, personal preference and availability.
Why do plants need mulch? There are several reasons -- weed control and reducing the need for watering, and temperature control for root protection. By covering the soil, mulch prevents the water in the soil from evaporating as quickly. By maintaining the moisture level in soil and providing insulation from hot and cold weather, mulch can help prevent extremes in air temperature from affecting the roots. Mulch also can protect the leaves of plants from soil washing or bouncing onto them. Another function of mulch is purely decorative. The garden simply looks better when the mulch is in place, framing the plants and providing an even, dark attractive background. Maintaining mulch is one of the best and easiest ways to help your garden grow.
For plants spreading out of control, consider giving them more room by dividing them. This requires separating the plants by digging them up and pulling apart the plants and roots. This leaves you with intact plants ready to put back into the soil. You can divide most perennials every 3 to 5 years if desired, or you can leave them a little longer if they have room to thrive without crowding another species. Some plants may benefit from thinning, especially those that are overcrowded or prone to rot in the rain. Some silver-foliaged species are especially prone to rot. Wet, thick foliage tightly packed together will increase the tendency for disease problems.
Flowering is another area where your perennials might need help. Many species will re-bloom if the old flowers are pulled off. This process is known as "deadheading." It allows the plant to re-bloom by preventing the flower from setting seed, which is the plant's goal for the season. It's important to deadhead flowers as soon as they fade. Some gardeners find this a rewarding way to spend time in the garden every afternoon. An added benefit of deadheading is the improved appearance of the plant. Removing the spent blossoms rejuvenates the garden's fresh look.
Fortunately, perennials are forgiving, and the plants seem to always bounce back. Don't worry about "getting it perfect" as you work on your technique. Try your hand at some of these methods and see how well your garden grows!
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
Friday, May 6, 2011
The Skinny On Annuals
These Plants Are a Gift That Keeps Giving Each And Every Year
"We always recommend a mix between annuals and perennials," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "While perennials provide constant beauty, annuals provide an opportunity to change things up a bit each year. It's a perfect combination." As for annuals, there are many pros and just a sole con.
The pros of annuals are that they're available in a wide variety of sizes and colors and only last a year, so each year you can pick new and different plants. Annuals are also great fill-in plants while you wait for perennials to multiply.
The cons? You must purchase and plant a new crop of annuals each year.
Now with a plant that you only use for one year, you can always change what you have planted the next year. It is easy for you to take a plant one year and replace it with something else the next year.
If you don’t want to have the same types of flowers year after year, this is a good option for you because each spring you can choose what you want to have bloom that summer, and you can pick something different for the next year. This works well for rental properties, so that the people living in the homes can plant different plants each spring. It is also advantageous because they are much easier to remove. If you have to replant a flowerbed, or if you want to move a flowerbed or redo your landscape, there is nothing that you have to dig up, because the plants die each fall.
Maintaining Your Annuals
Annuals can be one of the most trouble-free parts of the garden, yet they do require a few basic maintenance skills. Most annuals will perform well with little or no physical maintenance. But with almost all annuals, you will find that a little extra attention will improve their display and ensure that the display lasts as long as possible.
Some basic tips:
Water your annuals properly. Many bedding plants are tolerant of drought conditions, but in most cases they won't perform as well without regular water. The soil often contains a reserve of moisture below the surface, so plants in the ground can usually survive for surprisingly long periods of dry weather.
Use watering aids to reduce the necessity for frequent watering. Adding organic material such as garden compost will help the soil retain moisture, and mulching with a layer of such material on the surface will reduce evaporation.
Feed your annuals. Annuals planted in the ground will rarely need feeding, unless the soil is poor. Indeed, many will actually flower better in poor soil, merely growing leafy if over-fed.
Separate seedling and thin bud growth. When new plants are first planted, it's a good idea to pinch out the leading shoot. This will encourage the plant to develop side-shoots and become bushy. You can remove the flower buds on the minor stems, leaving just those at the tip of the shoots to develop.
Stake the taller growing annuals. Most annuals are now available in short forms that do not need staking. However, many varieties will need supports of some kind. Tie individual stems to canes for support. Large clumps can grow through special hoops or systems of linked stakes for this purpose. Alternatively, for a more natural look, use bamboo sticks or brushwood pushed into the ground around the plants, with a mesh of string tied between the sticks, if necessary.
Deadhead and cut back. Take off flower heads as they die because this will promote prolonged flowering and make the plant look neater. At the same time, cut back any stems that are becoming too long or have finished flowering. New shoots will generally appear to replace them.
As you can see, annuals provide a terrific source of joy for gardeners -- both in the selection and maintenance. Mix it up each year and you'll always be amazed at what your garden produces.
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
| Annuals or perennials? That is the question. One of the true joys of gardening is flower selection, and with this, gardeners are presented with an overwhelming number of choices. But it all begins with annuals or perennials. Or better yet, both. Annuals are flowers and other greens that you can plant and they will grow for that season only. Perennials will come back year after year. |  |
The pros of annuals are that they're available in a wide variety of sizes and colors and only last a year, so each year you can pick new and different plants. Annuals are also great fill-in plants while you wait for perennials to multiply.
The cons? You must purchase and plant a new crop of annuals each year.
Now with a plant that you only use for one year, you can always change what you have planted the next year. It is easy for you to take a plant one year and replace it with something else the next year.
If you don’t want to have the same types of flowers year after year, this is a good option for you because each spring you can choose what you want to have bloom that summer, and you can pick something different for the next year. This works well for rental properties, so that the people living in the homes can plant different plants each spring. It is also advantageous because they are much easier to remove. If you have to replant a flowerbed, or if you want to move a flowerbed or redo your landscape, there is nothing that you have to dig up, because the plants die each fall.
Maintaining Your Annuals
Annuals can be one of the most trouble-free parts of the garden, yet they do require a few basic maintenance skills. Most annuals will perform well with little or no physical maintenance. But with almost all annuals, you will find that a little extra attention will improve their display and ensure that the display lasts as long as possible.
Some basic tips:
Water your annuals properly. Many bedding plants are tolerant of drought conditions, but in most cases they won't perform as well without regular water. The soil often contains a reserve of moisture below the surface, so plants in the ground can usually survive for surprisingly long periods of dry weather.
Use watering aids to reduce the necessity for frequent watering. Adding organic material such as garden compost will help the soil retain moisture, and mulching with a layer of such material on the surface will reduce evaporation.
Feed your annuals. Annuals planted in the ground will rarely need feeding, unless the soil is poor. Indeed, many will actually flower better in poor soil, merely growing leafy if over-fed.
Separate seedling and thin bud growth. When new plants are first planted, it's a good idea to pinch out the leading shoot. This will encourage the plant to develop side-shoots and become bushy. You can remove the flower buds on the minor stems, leaving just those at the tip of the shoots to develop.
Stake the taller growing annuals. Most annuals are now available in short forms that do not need staking. However, many varieties will need supports of some kind. Tie individual stems to canes for support. Large clumps can grow through special hoops or systems of linked stakes for this purpose. Alternatively, for a more natural look, use bamboo sticks or brushwood pushed into the ground around the plants, with a mesh of string tied between the sticks, if necessary.
Deadhead and cut back. Take off flower heads as they die because this will promote prolonged flowering and make the plant look neater. At the same time, cut back any stems that are becoming too long or have finished flowering. New shoots will generally appear to replace them.
As you can see, annuals provide a terrific source of joy for gardeners -- both in the selection and maintenance. Mix it up each year and you'll always be amazed at what your garden produces.
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
Friday, April 29, 2011
Slit Seeding Why and How?
An Uncommon Technique Produces Spectacular Results
So if you're planting a new lawn, do it right! And one of the most effective ways to guarantee a lush and healthy lawn is slit seeding. Slit seeding utilizes a special machine (a slit seeder) that literally slits the ground and drops seeds in the cracks to give them deeper contact with the soil, ensures better growth, and protects from the elements, birds and other animals (a good rule of thumb when seeding is to 'feed the soil, not the birds.') "Most people aren't aware of slit seeding," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premier lawn care specialists. "But it's a process that works even better than sod, and is less expensive. We recommend this to all our customers looking to install a brand new lawn or renovate a lawn with problems."
When to Use a Slit Seeder
When seeding a lawn, it's very important to plant grass seeds directly in the soil. Most plots of ground have a "thatch" sitting on top of the soil, consisting of dead leaves, plants and other organic matter. If the grass seed is sown in the thatch rather than the soil, it will indeed germinate, but it will be weak.
Slit seeders have discs that actually slice into the ground, and have additional equipment to then drop grass seeds into the resulting furrows. They eliminate some of the work and ensure better grass-growing success.
How to Use a Slit Seeder
Prepare your soil for grass seeding by removing any weeds, trash or rocks in the way. Your new grass seeds will grow best if there's no competition, so you want a clear area. Then measure the amount of land you're seeding, then calculate how much grass seed you need (consult the packaging or your local lawn care professional). Fill your slit seeder with your first load of grass seed, and walk the seeder in a straight line from one end of the lawn to the other. The seeder will sew grass seeds in rows with 2 to 6 inches of distance between them. Once you've done the whole lawn, reseed, walking cross ways, until there's a row of grass seed in each square inch. Water the lawn well when you've finished.
"We've found that homeowners who slit seeded their lawn generally take more pride in the proper care going forward," added Dinizo. "This process seems to give the homeowner a truly vested interest and a real sense of accomplishment."
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
| Your home is no doubt the centerpiece of your property -- the art in and of itself -- so think of your lawn as the frame to this piece of art. And with any art, you want your frame to enhance it, not detract from it. Thus, special attention must be given to your lawn, and particularly in this region, as we've witnessed unusually harsh winters and hot summers in recent years (most people don't realize, but we live in an area that experiences among the most extreme weather changes on earth). |  |
When to Use a Slit Seeder
When seeding a lawn, it's very important to plant grass seeds directly in the soil. Most plots of ground have a "thatch" sitting on top of the soil, consisting of dead leaves, plants and other organic matter. If the grass seed is sown in the thatch rather than the soil, it will indeed germinate, but it will be weak.
Slit seeders have discs that actually slice into the ground, and have additional equipment to then drop grass seeds into the resulting furrows. They eliminate some of the work and ensure better grass-growing success.
How to Use a Slit Seeder
Prepare your soil for grass seeding by removing any weeds, trash or rocks in the way. Your new grass seeds will grow best if there's no competition, so you want a clear area. Then measure the amount of land you're seeding, then calculate how much grass seed you need (consult the packaging or your local lawn care professional). Fill your slit seeder with your first load of grass seed, and walk the seeder in a straight line from one end of the lawn to the other. The seeder will sew grass seeds in rows with 2 to 6 inches of distance between them. Once you've done the whole lawn, reseed, walking cross ways, until there's a row of grass seed in each square inch. Water the lawn well when you've finished.
"We've found that homeowners who slit seeded their lawn generally take more pride in the proper care going forward," added Dinizo. "This process seems to give the homeowner a truly vested interest and a real sense of accomplishment."
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Knowing When & How To Seed Your Lawn
This Is A Tricky Procedure That Must Be Handled Properly
| Spring has sprung, and it's a time of renewal for everything, from our minds to our bodies, from our landscaping to our lawns. Especially our lawns. As you take a walk around your property this time of year, you'll see the spring bulbs popping, the forsythia's blooming, the trees budding. And your lawn, while beginning to show new growth, is no doubt showing the effects of a particularly harsh winter like the one we just experienced. |  |
But fortunately, lawn growth can be controlled better than any other area of your landscaping, and this begins with proper reseeding. While fertilizing and pest control measures are also quite important, they can't happen if you don't have a full lawn bed to begin with. And while proper mowing and watering is also essential, "seeding a lawn is probably one of the most misunderstood aspects of proper turf maintenance," stressed Dinizo.
Why Reseed?
First, you need to assess the need for new lawn seeding before you proceed. Spots smaller than a salad plate, for example, will generally fill-in, assuming the lawn receives the recommended fertilization application that type of grass requires. But larger areas will need lawn repair.
Spring Vs. Fall
While fall is most commonly the best time to seed, spring reseeding is essential after a rougher than normal winter, as they lawn has been damaged. Which is why so many lawns in this area are now in need of reseeding. And pay close attention to shady areas of your lawn, being sure to reseed before the leaves open up for the season to allow sunlight to penetrate to the seeded area.
What Kind Of Seed?
Buy a cheap grass seed, and your lawn is going to look cheap and patchy. What's really best is to consult with a reputable lawn care professional to match the best seed to your existing lawn. By year's end, this is going to cost you less money, guaranteed.
How Much Seed?
Too much seed -- not too little -- is the most common reason reseeding may not take. One pound of seed may not seem like much, but that amount can contain more than one million seeds! When too much seed is placed in a small area, the competition for space is intense. Seeds growing too close can cause seedling blights, which can kill a newly seeded area overnight. Using a spreader with the proper settings is crucial, and again, this is something your lawn care professional can provide answers or help with.
Preparing The Area
Remove the dead grass by raking it, and break up the ground a bit to loosen it. This will provide for ideal growth conditions. You may also want to add some bagged topsoil on the spot before seeding a lawn, but this can also add unknown weed seeds into the area. Larger areas may require equipment like a slit-seeder, core aerator, power rake, or rototiller, and at this point it's best (and cheaper in the long run) to hire a lawn service to do the work.
Watering & Mowing
Keep the seeded areas moist for 14 to 21 days to ensure good germination. Mornings or early afternoons are best. Light, frequent watering is better than infrequent, heavy watering. Mow as you normally would. This will not hurt the new growth (but keep foot traffic to a minimum). Continue the watering methods mentioned above through 2-3 mowing cycles, then reduce to the usual watering schedule from there. Long story short, while Dinizo is quick to provide straightforward do-it-yourself advice in the areas of gardening and other landscaping, when it comes to reseeding, "it's really best to have it handled by a lawn care professional. "This is too tricky of a project to get wrong, as your lawn is the dominant part of your landscaping," concluded Dinizo.
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
New Jersey's New Fertilizer Law Primer
Designed To Protect The State's Water Resources, It Doesn't Mean You Can't Have
A Beautiful Lawn.
| While perhaps nothing gives a homeowner more pride than a lush and green lawn each summer, the state of New Jersey has put measures in place beginning in 2011 with a new fertilizer law designed to safeguard the state's precious water resources. The state is not telling you not to enjoy a lush and green lawn this year, but rather to do it safely by monitoring the fertilizing process. And while the new law can be a bit laborious to follow, working with a local lawn care professional can help you to safely follow the stipulations for the long-term good of our beautiful Garden State. |  |
In order to better understand the why's and how's of the new fertilizer law, here's a brief overview:
What Is This New Fertilizer Law All About?
Water quality is at the heart of this law. It still allows you to feed your lawn, but in a way that avoids adverse impact on New Jersey waters. Barnegat Bay was becoming more polluted and life in its waters was actually changing, such as an increased jellyfish population. The state determined lawn fertilizer was likely a major contributor to this -- runoff into storm drains, streams, or leaching into groundwater, and eventually finding its way into waterways.
How Does This State Law Impact Municipality Laws?
Many municipalities already have their own fertilizer laws. However, the new state law supersedes all local mandates.
How Do I Know How Much Fertilizer To Now Apply?
While the packaging may include the new limits, this verbiage is not required until 2013. In the interim, consult with your local lawn care professional for the most accurate calculations. You can also determine amounts by visiting http://rutgersnjfertilizerapp.blogspot.com.
WHEN Should I Not Apply Fertilizer?
The new law prohibits fertilizer application between November 15 and March 1. Also don’t apply fertilizer during or just before a heavy rain. Don’t leave it on an impervious surface like pavement – sweep up any fertilizer that falls onto this type of surface. Don’t apply it to frozen ground. Runoff is higher in all these instances.
WHERE Can I Not Apply Fertilizer?
Buffer zones exist around bodies of water for obvious runoff reasons. Fertilizer containing nitrogen or phosphorus cannot be applied within 25 feet of a body of water, unless application is via drop spreader, rotary spreader with a deflector, or as a targeted spray liquid. When these methods are used, the buffer zone may be reduced to 10 feet.
Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.
Friday, April 8, 2011
With Early Spring Comes Snow Mold
This Dreaded Fungus Can Destroy A Beautiful Lawn . . .
If The Proper Measures Aren't Immediately Taken
The arrival of early spring and the renewal of your lawn and landscaping can also bring with it a dreaded problem regarding the former -- snow mold. Snow mold is just that -- a lawn disease caused by a fungus, and which becomes apparent when the snow melts in spring. Snow mold is caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen.
Snow mold is either gray or pink. While the pink snow mold infects the crown of the plant and can cause more severe injury than gray snow mold, which only infects the leaf tissue, both can be a huge problem when it comes to the health and beauty of your lawn.
"Snow mold can be one of the more destructive enemies to a lawn," notes Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J. "But with proper early spring attention, this potential problem can quickly be eliminated."
The best answer to combat and remove snow mold is de-thatching. What de-thatching does is bring the fungus to the lawn surface so it can dry and not cause further damage. Once it dries, a simple pass of the lawnmower will literally blow it into the air and disappear.
This de-thatching process also takes care of any thatch problem. While a small quantity of thatch is quite normal and can be healthy for your lawn (keeping crabgrass and other weed populations down, while also protecting turf from traffic damage), too much thatch encourages rooting problems, diseases, irrigation problems and even pest infestations. Sometimes, a lawn builds up too much thatch, and the dead material must then be removed to ensure the continued health of a lawn bed.
The general rule of thumb is lawns with 1/2 inch of thatch or less are unlikely to have problems, but once the thatch layer is greater than a 1/2 inch, it can creates a multitude of problems for your lawn.
Removal
Fortunately, thatch removal is a fairly simple task and can be handled with de-thatchers or vertical mowers, mechanical devices that physically remove the material. But don't dig too deep into your lawn, as these tools can actually tear out the roots entirely. Regardless, expect to do some overseeding and/or spot seeding after de-thatching.
Pre-Winter Preparation
Of course the best defense is a good offense, and this means taking measures in the fall to prevent your lawn from snow mold damage over the winter. Proper fertilizing to address this is required, and it's best to consult with your local landscaper or nursery for the best answers, as often a "do-it-yourself" approach when it comes to the delicate balance of fertilizing your lawn can result in further damage if not done correctly.
If The Proper Measures Aren't Immediately Taken
The arrival of early spring and the renewal of your lawn and landscaping can also bring with it a dreaded problem regarding the former -- snow mold. Snow mold is just that -- a lawn disease caused by a fungus, and which becomes apparent when the snow melts in spring. Snow mold is caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen.
Snow mold is either gray or pink. While the pink snow mold infects the crown of the plant and can cause more severe injury than gray snow mold, which only infects the leaf tissue, both can be a huge problem when it comes to the health and beauty of your lawn.
"Snow mold can be one of the more destructive enemies to a lawn," notes Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J. "But with proper early spring attention, this potential problem can quickly be eliminated."
The best answer to combat and remove snow mold is de-thatching. What de-thatching does is bring the fungus to the lawn surface so it can dry and not cause further damage. Once it dries, a simple pass of the lawnmower will literally blow it into the air and disappear.
This de-thatching process also takes care of any thatch problem. While a small quantity of thatch is quite normal and can be healthy for your lawn (keeping crabgrass and other weed populations down, while also protecting turf from traffic damage), too much thatch encourages rooting problems, diseases, irrigation problems and even pest infestations. Sometimes, a lawn builds up too much thatch, and the dead material must then be removed to ensure the continued health of a lawn bed.
The general rule of thumb is lawns with 1/2 inch of thatch or less are unlikely to have problems, but once the thatch layer is greater than a 1/2 inch, it can creates a multitude of problems for your lawn.
Removal
Fortunately, thatch removal is a fairly simple task and can be handled with de-thatchers or vertical mowers, mechanical devices that physically remove the material. But don't dig too deep into your lawn, as these tools can actually tear out the roots entirely. Regardless, expect to do some overseeding and/or spot seeding after de-thatching.
Pre-Winter Preparation
Of course the best defense is a good offense, and this means taking measures in the fall to prevent your lawn from snow mold damage over the winter. Proper fertilizing to address this is required, and it's best to consult with your local landscaper or nursery for the best answers, as often a "do-it-yourself" approach when it comes to the delicate balance of fertilizing your lawn can result in further damage if not done correctly.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)