Thursday, March 3, 2016

Employee of the Year - Vincent Nicolaro

Congratulations to our Foreman, Vincent Nicolaro, for being this year’s “Employee of the Year!”

Vinny has always loved the outdoors and cannot stay inside for long. He loves to see the changes of season and he is an avid ornithologist.  Not only does he have an affinity for birds but butterflies, bobcats and bears, also. He mentions that he cannot stay inside and could never sit at a desk all day.

How did it all begin? Vinny has been working in landscaping since he was 14 years old when he started helping his uncle with landscaping and snow removal in Mt. Olive, NJ. That was a start of almost 30 years in this business.  And, after courses on Horticulture, seminars at Rutgers, business courses and accredited courses, his knowledge has grown.

When asked what he likes about his job, he said that he likes that every day is different and he appreciates the comradery with the men he works with. And working for Truesdale specifically? Ralph – his commitment, motivation and drives; he appreciates how Ralph really looks out for his guys.

Vinny also mentions that his family fully supports his calling to be a landscaper. In fact, Stephanie, his wife of 13 years, has learned about nature and has become a lover of the outdoors due to Vinny.  The picture to the right is Vinny, Stephanie, and their Dalmatian, Cinder.

What do our customers think of Vinny?

“I just wanted to take a moment to acknowledge a wonderful employee of Truesdale Nursery. His name is Vinny who oversees the workers that do the maintenance at Wychwood Gardens. Vinny is that "old school" true professional that always pays attention to the details. He communicates with the board members and the homeowners when needed and sees that the job is done right! We are glad to have him--and his professionalism and work ethic has made a difference on our property.” - Debbie Giammarino, Board Member

“We've been fortunate to be a Truesdale customer for the past several years and what makes the company truly exceptional is its people.  With his thoroughness, knowledge and customer care philosophy, Vinny is the perfect example of what makes Truesdale so outstanding.  Congratulations, Vinny - well-deserved!!” – Jessica Dalgliesh

When asked if he had any advice regarding landscaping, Vinny said: “Do not skip maintenance/pruning on your landscape. Even skipping one season makes a difference. It is not good for the plants and it will just wind up costing you more because it will become too overgrown. It is much easier to maintain if you keep up on it.”

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Stop Winter Snow and Salt from Damaging Your Landscape!

Every year, lawns and landscape shrubs take brutal damage from de-icers, snow piles, and plows.  We want to keep the sidewalks and pavements clear of ice and snow, but we wind up costing ourselves valuable plants in the process.  What can be done?

First – Plant with Winter Thoughts
When you plant your shrubs, remember to think about your snow removal process.  Do you plow up your driveway and dump the snow at the top? If so, make sure that landscape plants will not be damaged if placed in that area.  Or, does the snow plow with rock salt come down your street and put a constant barrage of snow and salt on the front of your property? If so, it might be best not to plant right along the street.

Some suggestions: If you already have plants near the road, you might want to provide a barrier, for example, you may wrap them in burlap to try and protect them, or put up a snow fence.

Second – Shrubs Are NOT Proper Locations for Snow Piles
Shoveling is hard work and putting that snow in the closest location is very tempting – but DON’T!  Piling snow onto your shrubs will cause damage that they might not recover from. This is especially true if there are large amounts of snow that do not melt right away.  Heavy snow will bend the branches and disfigure or kill them.  Don’t put snow on the plants, instead, try to take any heavy snow off of them.

Pre-snow suggestion:  You may also prepare your trees and shrubs ahead of time with proper pruning and bracing. 

Third – Choose your De-Icer Wisely
Not all de-icers will cause damage.  The most used one is rock salt (chloride) but this is very caustic and will cause damage to pavers, concrete, cars, plants and lawns.  If you use this, use it sparingly, especially near your lawn and plants.  Remember that when the salt melts the ice, the run-off can go into your lawn areas.

Other de-icers? Calcium Chloride is less harmful to plants but it is still corrosive to concrete and metal.  Magnesium chloride can be a good option. Calcium Magnesium Acetate is the most expensive but, when used correctly, is low in toxicity and the most environmentally safe.

Using a de-icer sparingly and shoveling more often will help, as well as using a de-icer that is less caustic to your property.

After Winter Snow and Ice Melt
Wait until the snow and ice have fully melted before assessing any damage.  You will be able to see at that point any spots where salt may have affected your plants, or the weight of the snow might have bent the branches.  And, of course, call Truesdale so we can help you.  Our experts will walk the property with you and advise you of what is truly damaged and what will bounce back in spring.

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Winter Pruning

Winter is the perfect time to prune your deciduous trees.  

Why Prune in Winter? 

Once the trees lose their leaves, you can view the structure of the trees more easily. This can make it easier to see what needs to be done and see any problems that should be taken care of.  

Winter is also the dormant time for these trees.  This means that the fresh wounds will only be exposed for a short time and that the insects/diseases that are more prevalent in Spring, are not attacking your wounded tree in Winter. 

Pruning in winter also promotes faster regrowth in Spring.

What are the Benefits of Pruning?

First, it is about safety.  You should cut back branches that have overgrown in areas that could be annoying or dangerous – for example, over walkways and driveways. Also, branches that have overlapped and can cause damage to each other can be pruned so that the healthier branch will remain.  And, lastly, removing dead or dying branches now is better than a storm breaking them and causing damage to other plants, property or yourself.

Pruning allows sunlight and air into the center of the tree – just enough to promote healthy growth. 

Beauty is the last, yet still important, reason to prune. To cut back the branches and foresee what the tree will look like in spring as it gives out its new growth. 

Pruning is something you can do yourself, or you can call an expert to do it.  If are unable to safely prune, please call someone who can.  And, remember, Truesdale can always help.

Friday, October 23, 2015

October Lansdcaping Tips


October is a great month to get all the last minute items done on your property.  It is still warm enough … but not for long.  The following are some items you should accomplish before it gets too cold.

Landscaping
·       Continue planting trees and shrubs.
·       Transplant trees and shrubs.
·       Planting of ornamental Kale, Mums, etc., which will decorate your property for Fall.

Beds
·       Clean perennial beds – deadhead blooms, prune to shape or cut back dead foliage.
·       Mulch to a depth of 2” for winter protection
·       Remove leaves from beds.
·       Continue to edge beds.
·       Prune – make sure it is the proper time for the particular plant, though.
·       Continue to water, especially new plantings.

Lawn
·       Mow lawn, as needed.
·       Remove leaves from lawn.
·       Fertilize lawn
·       Core Aerate and Overseed, if not already done. You can do this through mid-October.


Need help with any of these items, or have any questions, give Truesdale Landscaping a call.

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Leaf Scorch Damage

The heat of summer has caused quite a bit of damage to our plants, trees and lawns.  Currently you might notice that many of the leaves have edges that are brown.  This is called “Leaf Scorch” and is a condition caused by the hot summer we just experienced. This is not caused by disease or insects, but by the environment. Conditions such as drought, high temperature, winds, and improper watering will allow the plant to suffer. During these conditions, not enough moisture has reached the outer leaves and the exposed leaves have dried out and scorched.

Leaf Scorch is characterized by a yellowing along the edges or veins of the leaf.  As the leaves turn brown in those areas, it becomes the most noticeable and, it is at this time that the leaves will not recover.  It is most severe on the outer leaves, especially those that face the sun.  

What can you do?

Once leaf scorch has occurred, there is no cure.  The leaves that have already turned brown will not recover, BUT as long as you water properly, the rest of the plant should survive. Deep watering is recommended – a slow, deep soaking of the soil at the roots.  During hot weather, watering the roots of each plant for 1-2 minutes in the spring and up to 10 minutes in the summer, every other day, is usually sufficient. When the weather gets cooler, you may water less.  This is very important for the plant, especially for the young trees who are still establishing their root systems.  Deep watering helps to prevent leaf scorch by making sure the plant will receive enough moisture for even those outer leaves. 

Unfortunately, over-watering can be just as bad.  Test the soil to see how it is.  Early morning watering is the best time, before the water will be evaporated by the heat of day.  Mulch can also help retain moisture at the roots. 

Fertilization in Fall will help the plant by giving it back some nutrients it lost during the stress of summer.  This is highly recommended for all trees and shrubs that have survived this harsh summer – whether they were damaged by leaf scorch or not.

Need an evaluation of your trees and shrubs? Contact us and we will evaluate your property for free. 

Friday, June 19, 2015

Don’t Kill Your Plants – Water!


Plants need water to live. Besides that, there are no “rules” to watering – it is a judgement call. The amount of water depends on the type of plant, weather, time of year, and many other issues. What is the best thing to do? Check the soil!

The most effective way to water your plants is to use a soaker hose and remember that it is the roots that will need the water. Focus on the roots. If you do get water on the foliage, make sure that it is early enough in the day that the water will dry off before nightfall. Water on foliage overnight, allows for the spread of fungus and diseases.

For established plants, deep, infrequent watering is recommended. In most cases, an inch of water per week should be sufficient. For new plantings, a slow trickle from a garden hose for 45-60 minutes should be adequate. For trees and larger shrubs two waterings a day may be required.

Overwatering can also be detrimental to your plants. Water only when needed. Test the soil before watering. If your tree or plant is in the shade, it will, most likely, require less water.

Here are some tips:
1. Water only when necessary – check the soil. Over watering can be detrimental to your plants, too.
2. Water at the base of the plant. Water will then go right to the root system where it is needed.
3. Water in the morning. Watering in the morning is best because the water will reach the roots and will not be fighting with evaporation from the sun and heat.
4. Water with a soaker hose, if possible. If not, use a regular hose. Although sprinklers are great, they do not always reach the roots and get enough water to the plant. This is especially true with new trees and shrubs.
5. Mulch is important. We recommend that a maximum of 2-3 inches of organic mulch be maintained on shrub or perennial beds. Mulching helps to retain moisture, stabilize ground temperature and prevent weeds.

We hope that this helps you during the spring and summer months, especially. Please do not rely solely on rain – it will not be enough, especially with new plantings.

Friday, May 8, 2015

Dandelions, Plantains and Wild Onions – Spring Weeds have Emerged


Although a field of dandelions looks beautiful, this weed is usually not a welcome addition to a lovely green lawn.  In addition to dandelions, this time of year you will notice wild onions and plantains.  These weeds can push out healthy lawns and sap the water and nutrients your lawn needs. Unfortunately, in order to rid your lawn of these weeds, you will need a good herbicide. 

Dandelions can have 40-100 seeds in one seed head.  They are very prolific and are able to reproduce in any little crack they can find.  Seeds can travel several miles with a good wind, so this becomes a yearly fight for your lawn.  A good broadleaf herbicide can help eliminate these weeds from your lawn – but make sure to do this early before they flower – a pre-emergent is best. Broadleaf herbicides are made to kill these weeds specifically and not to harm your grass. You will want to take care of the dandelions before the white, fluffy seed heads emerge.

Plantain is a broadleaf weed.  The best way to prevent plantains is to aerate compacted soil and to fertilize on a regular basis.  Healthy grass will push out the plantains but a poor lawn will be overgrown by them.  These weeds need to be sprayed or removed prior to them producing seeds. Post emergent herbicides are best in controlling them.

Wild Onions are recognizable by their thin, waxy, tall stems and that they grow in clumps.  Also the scent is noticeable when they are mowed.  Wild Onions are difficult to control.  You can try and remove them, but the bulbs can break off easily and if you do not remove the full bulb, they can propagate from that.  Again, you will want to take care of these before they seed. Even after you think you have removed/killed them from an area, you will need to keep an eye on the area for regrowth.  Keeping the weed trimmed will help it from going to seed and spreading to the rest of your lawn.  Pre-emergent herbicides do not work on these weeds. A good post emergent herbicide will work but may require several applications throughout the year.

All of these weeds can be controlled with a good, broadleaf herbicide which will attack only these weeds and not kill your lawn.  Fortunately, our lawn expert, Glenn Koleda, knows the proper way of dealing with these and other lawn issues.  Glenn would be happy to assess your lawn for you – call us today for a free evaluation.