Stop Winter Snow and Salt from Damaging Your Landscape!

Every year, lawns and landscape shrubs take brutal damage from de-icers, snow piles, and plows.  We want to keep the sidewalks and pavements clear of ice and snow, but we wind up costing ourselves valuable plants in the process.  What can be done?

First – Plant with Winter Thoughts
When you plant your shrubs, remember to think about your snow removal process.  Do you plow up your driveway and dump the snow at the top? If so, make sure that landscape plants will not be damaged if placed in that area.  Or, does the snow plow with rock salt come down your street and put a constant barrage of snow and salt on the front of your property? If so, it might be best not to plant right along the street.

Some suggestions: If you already have plants near the road, you might want to provide a barrier, for example, you may wrap them in burlap to try and protect them, or put up a snow fence.

Second – Shrubs Are NOT Proper Locations for Snow Piles
Shoveling is hard work and putting that snow in the closest location is very tempting – but DON’T!  Piling snow onto your shrubs will cause damage that they might not recover from. This is especially true if there are large amounts of snow that do not melt right away.  Heavy snow will bend the branches and disfigure or kill them.  Don’t put snow on the plants, instead, try to take any heavy snow off of them.

Pre-snow suggestion:  You may also prepare your trees and shrubs ahead of time with proper pruning and bracing. 

Third – Choose your De-Icer Wisely
Not all de-icers will cause damage.  The most used one is rock salt (chloride) but this is very caustic and will cause damage to pavers, concrete, cars, plants and lawns.  If you use this, use it sparingly, especially near your lawn and plants.  Remember that when the salt melts the ice, the run-off can go into your lawn areas.

Other de-icers? Calcium Chloride is less harmful to plants but it is still corrosive to concrete and metal.  Magnesium chloride can be a good option. Calcium Magnesium Acetate is the most expensive but, when used correctly, is low in toxicity and the most environmentally safe.

Using a de-icer sparingly and shoveling more often will help, as well as using a de-icer that is less caustic to your property.

After Winter Snow and Ice Melt
Wait until the snow and ice have fully melted before assessing any damage.  You will be able to see at that point any spots where salt may have affected your plants, or the weight of the snow might have bent the branches.  And, of course, call Truesdale so we can help you.  Our experts will walk the property with you and advise you of what is truly damaged and what will bounce back in spring.

Leaf Scorch Damage

The heat of summer has caused quite a bit of damage to our plants, trees and lawns.  Currently you might notice that many of the leaves have edges that are brown.  This is called “Leaf Scorch” and is a condition caused by the hot summer we just experienced. This is not caused by disease or insects, but by the environment. Conditions such as drought, high temperature, winds, and improper watering will allow the plant to suffer. During these conditions, not enough moisture has reached the outer leaves and the exposed leaves have dried out and scorched.

Leaf Scorch is characterized by a yellowing along the edges or veins of the leaf.  As the leaves turn brown in those areas, it becomes the most noticeable and, it is at this time that the leaves will not recover.  It is most severe on the outer leaves, especially those that face the sun.  

What can you do?

Once leaf scorch has occurred, there is no cure.  The leaves that have already turned brown will not recover, BUT as long as you water properly, the rest of the plant should survive. Deep watering is recommended – a slow, deep soaking of the soil at the roots.  During hot weather, watering the roots of each plant for 1-2 minutes in the spring and up to 10 minutes in the summer, every other day, is usually sufficient. When the weather gets cooler, you may water less.  This is very important for the plant, especially for the young trees who are still establishing their root systems.  Deep watering helps to prevent leaf scorch by making sure the plant will receive enough moisture for even those outer leaves. 

Unfortunately, over-watering can be just as bad.  Test the soil to see how it is.  Early morning watering is the best time, before the water will be evaporated by the heat of day.  Mulch can also help retain moisture at the roots. 

Fertilization in Fall will help the plant by giving it back some nutrients it lost during the stress of summer.  This is highly recommended for all trees and shrubs that have survived this harsh summer – whether they were damaged by leaf scorch or not.

Need an evaluation of your trees and shrubs? Contact us and we will evaluate your property for free. 

Don’t Kill Your Plants – Water!

Plants need water to live. Besides that, there are no “rules” to watering – it is a judgement call. The amount of water depends on the type of plant, weather, time of year, and many other issues. What is the best thing to do? Check the soil!

The most effective way to water your plants is to use a soaker hose and remember that it is the roots that will need the water. Focus on the roots. If you do get water on the foliage, make sure that it is early enough in the day that the water will dry off before nightfall. Water on foliage overnight, allows for the spread of fungus and diseases.

For established plants, deep, infrequent watering is recommended. In most cases, an inch of water per week should be sufficient. For new plantings, a slow trickle from a garden hose for 45-60 minutes should be adequate. For trees and larger shrubs two waterings a day may be required.

Overwatering can also be detrimental to your plants. Water only when needed. Test the soil before watering. If your tree or plant is in the shade, it will, most likely, require less water.

Here are some tips:
1. Water only when necessary – check the soil. Over watering can be detrimental to your plants, too.
2. Water at the base of the plant. Water will then go right to the root system where it is needed.
3. Water in the morning. Watering in the morning is best because the water will reach the roots and will not be fighting with evaporation from the sun and heat.
4. Water with a soaker hose, if possible. If not, use a regular hose. Although sprinklers are great, they do not always reach the roots and get enough water to the plant. This is especially true with new trees and shrubs.
5. Mulch is important. We recommend that a maximum of 2-3 inches of organic mulch be maintained on shrub or perennial beds. Mulching helps to retain moisture, stabilize ground temperature and prevent weeds.

We hope that this helps you during the spring and summer months, especially. Please do not rely solely on rain – it will not be enough, especially with new plantings.