Friday, May 13, 2011

Maintaining Perennials

Year In And Year Out, These Special Plants Provide An Abundance Of Joy
While most seasoned gardeners and nurseries alike will recommend a mix of annuals and perennials in your garden, the task can seem quite daunting.
As for the perennials (plants that grow back every year), questions abound. Where to start? What plants to select? How to plant?

But not to worry. With a few simple techniques, you'll be able to sit back and watch your perennials flourish.

"Perennials are a true joy for any gardener," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "To see the fruits of your labor literally come to life each spring is something very special."

 Start by assessing the status of your garden. Do you have lots of spreading plants that seem invasive? Do you have plants that are bushy and seem to be growing out of control? Are some plants that used to grow well growing poorly now? Does it seem that weeds are taking over? Are there plants you would like to replace? Look at the individual plants as well as the overall garden.

An easy factor to fix is the need for fertilizer. Most plants benefit from regular feedings during the growing season. Use a good balanced fertilizer in one of several forms. Controlled release pellets (called prills) and the water-soluble types that are either mixed with water and sprinkled on or are used in a special dispenser attached to a watering hose are most popular. A good balanced fertilizer often does wonders to increase growth and enhance flowering. Remember compost is also a source of nutrients.

A fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number) will increase the growth of foliage, while a fertilizer high in phosphorous (the middle number) is good for root growth and flowering and is important in cell division. Using a fertilizer high in phosphorous but lower in nitrogen will help flowering species reach their full potential without focusing too much on leaf growth. Most perennials end up spindly and unattractive when high-nitrogen fertilizers are applied.

Assess which plants need to be pruned. Some plants need pruning to control spreading and guide new shoot growth. Some plants need pruning to refresh and increase new growth or to remove old or damaged parts. Either way, the process is the same. Decide which shoots need to be cut, and figure out how far back the plant should be pruned. This can be purely aesthetic, based on your preference, or it can be based on where the damage occurs on the plant. Find the closest branching point (called a node) just below the area of damage or overgrowth, and make a 45-degree cut just above the branching point. Don't cut too near the node, or the cut may not heal; about ¼ inch above the joint is fine. If there is no branch, find a leaf with an intact axillary bud (the little bud between the top of the leaf and the stem of the plant) and make the cut just above the leaf. The bud will "break" and form another branch there. For smaller plants or herbaceous (not woody) growth, a cut may not be necessary. Many times, pinching off the extra branch is enough.

Another aspect of perennial care is weeding. Much of work that should be done when installing the bed is removing perennial weeds, using a weed mat and mulching well. However, even a well-planned garden can fall prey to pesky weeds. Hand weeding the garden is most effective. It's vital to pull weeds before they mature so that they don't take needed nutrients from the perennials and leave seeds in the garden. Perennials have enough work growing without competing with weeds for food, water and space. Weed seeds can lay dormant in soil for long periods before germinating. Take care not to leave any sections of the weeds in the soil, for they will often grow back from small pieces of root or other plant material.

After the weeding is done, consider the need for additional mulch. Mulch upkeep is one of the best maintenance practices available to keep a perennial garden healthy. Recommended mulches include many organic materials, from pine straw to shredded pine bark and compost. A layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep is recommended for most plants. The actual depth will depend on cost, personal preference and availability.
Why do plants need mulch? There are several reasons -- weed control and reducing the need for watering, and temperature control for root protection. By covering the soil, mulch prevents the water in the soil from evaporating as quickly. By maintaining the moisture level in soil and providing insulation from hot and cold weather, mulch can help prevent extremes in air temperature from affecting the roots. Mulch also can protect the leaves of plants from soil washing or bouncing onto them. Another function of mulch is purely decorative. The garden simply looks better when the mulch is in place, framing the plants and providing an even, dark attractive background. Maintaining mulch is one of the best and easiest ways to help your garden grow.

For plants spreading out of control, consider giving them more room by dividing them. This requires separating the plants by digging them up and pulling apart the plants and roots. This leaves you with intact plants ready to put back into the soil. You can divide most perennials every 3 to 5 years if desired, or you can leave them a little longer if they have room to thrive without crowding another species. Some plants may benefit from thinning, especially those that are overcrowded or prone to rot in the rain. Some silver-foliaged species are especially prone to rot. Wet, thick foliage tightly packed together will increase the tendency for disease problems.

Flowering is another area where your perennials might need help. Many species will re-bloom if the old flowers are pulled off. This process is known as "deadheading." It allows the plant to re-bloom by preventing the flower from setting seed, which is the plant's goal for the season. It's important to deadhead flowers as soon as they fade. Some gardeners find this a rewarding way to spend time in the garden every afternoon. An added benefit of deadheading is the improved appearance of the plant. Removing the spent blossoms rejuvenates the garden's fresh look.

Fortunately, perennials are forgiving, and the plants seem to always bounce back. Don't worry about "getting it perfect" as you work on your technique. Try your hand at some of these methods and see how well your garden grows!

Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.

Friday, May 6, 2011

The Skinny On Annuals

 These Plants Are a Gift That Keeps Giving Each And Every Year
Annuals or perennials? That is the question.
One of the true joys of gardening is flower selection, and with this, gardeners are presented with an overwhelming number of choices. But it all begins with annuals or perennials. Or better yet, both.
Annuals are flowers and other greens that you can plant and they will grow for that season only. Perennials will come back year after year.
"We always recommend a mix between annuals and perennials," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "While perennials provide constant beauty, annuals provide an opportunity to change things up a bit each year. It's a perfect combination." As for annuals, there are many pros and just a sole con.
The pros of annuals are that they're available in a wide variety of sizes and colors and only last a year, so each year you can pick new and different plants. Annuals are also great fill-in plants while you wait for perennials to multiply.

The cons? You must purchase and plant a new crop of annuals each year.

Now with a plant that you only use for one year, you can always change what you have planted the next year. It is easy for you to take a plant one year and replace it with something else the next year.
If you don’t want to have the same types of flowers year after year, this is a good option for you because each spring you can choose what you want to have bloom that summer, and you can pick something different for the next year. This works well for rental properties, so that the people living in the homes can plant different plants each spring. It is also advantageous because they are much easier to remove. If you have to replant a flowerbed, or if you want to move a flowerbed or redo your landscape, there is nothing that you have to dig up, because the plants die each fall.

Maintaining Your Annuals
Annuals can be one of the most trouble-free parts of the garden, yet they do require a few basic maintenance skills. Most annuals will perform well with little or no physical maintenance. But with almost all annuals, you will find that a little extra attention will improve their display and ensure that the display lasts as long as possible.

Some basic tips:

Water your annuals properly. Many bedding plants are tolerant of drought conditions, but in most cases they won't perform as well without regular water. The soil often contains a reserve of moisture below the surface, so plants in the ground can usually survive for surprisingly long periods of dry weather.

Use watering aids to reduce the necessity for frequent watering. Adding organic material such as garden compost will help the soil retain moisture, and mulching with a layer of such material on the surface will reduce evaporation.

Feed your annuals. Annuals planted in the ground will rarely need feeding, unless the soil is poor. Indeed, many will actually flower better in poor soil, merely growing leafy if over-fed.

Separate seedling and thin bud growth. When new plants are first planted, it's a good idea to pinch out the leading shoot. This will encourage the plant to develop side-shoots and become bushy. You can remove the flower buds on the minor stems, leaving just those at the tip of the shoots to develop.

Stake the taller growing annuals. Most annuals are now available in short forms that do not need staking. However, many varieties will need supports of some kind. Tie individual stems to canes for support. Large clumps can grow through special hoops or systems of linked stakes for this purpose. Alternatively, for a more natural look, use bamboo sticks or brushwood pushed into the ground around the plants, with a mesh of string tied between the sticks, if necessary.

Deadhead and cut back. Take off flower heads as they die because this will promote prolonged flowering and make the plant look neater. At the same time, cut back any stems that are becoming too long or have finished flowering. New shoots will generally appear to replace them.
As you can see, annuals provide a terrific source of joy for gardeners -- both in the selection and maintenance. Mix it up each year and you'll always be amazed at what your garden produces.

Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.