Showing posts with label Articles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Articles. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Fall Into Winter with Ease



It’s time to finish up those odds and ends before it gets too late and winter is here. If  you haven’t already done so, you should fertilize your lawn before the leaves begin to fall in full force, as this is your last chance to ensure that your lawn gets the important nutrients it needs in order to maintain its lush and healthy vibrancy. Be sure to scan your property regularly; if you notice diseased or damaged plants, now is the time to address them. Take advantage of the warm weather to clean up any remaining bed weeds. It’s always good to mulch beds, add new plants or replace the dead ones at this point. And finally, trim back your trees so that they survive the harsh winter storms. There is still plenty left to do this month in order to prepare your property for the winter. It’s simple; Truesdale is here to handle the tough tasks for you.

Prepare Your Beds
Mulching beds around your trees and shrubs is extremely important in order to help prevent weeds from growing back, to provide warmth for your plants during the colder temperatures and to eliminate moisture. Trim back your perennials, annuals and bulbs properly to reduce any remaining diseases from the winter. Whether it is trimming Hydrangeas or cutting back your beautiful Daylilies and Heuchera, the correct approach in the fall will ensure their beauty next year.

Last Chance for Planting
The best time for planting is Fall. There is still some time to revamp your landscaping by adding new plants or replacing the older ones. Keep in mind that it is best to plant your shrubs and trees sooner than later, while they are still dormant, to give them the best opportunity for growth come springtime.

Fall Fertilization
It’s not too late to fertilize. In fact, fertilization in the fall will boost the root system and help you achieve that beautiful lush green lawn that we all strive for.  

Pruning
Pruning during this time of year promotes fast re-growth in the spring. The leaves have all fallen and the “woody” plants are dormant making it easier to trim. Pruning is necessary to remove dead, diseased, broken or overlapping limbs. It reduces the weight of branches that are prone to breakage from storms or heavy snowfall. Pruning properly drives away those pesky critters and diseases, which also means it’s less work for you in the long run.

Helpful Tip: Importance of Clearing Up the Leaves from your Lawn 

Remember to remove leaves in order to prevent mold disease, for proper growth, and for cleanliness of your property.

While these are all good reasons to get rid of the leaves, there is one important factor to keep in mind (that is not so obvious), which is to help nature step in by allowing the sunlight and plants to work together. This is a crucial time for grasses to rejuvenate themselves and strengthen their roots.

Fallen leaves can overshadow and prevent grass from growing properly (if at all). That being said, remove those excess leaves and your lawn will thank you in the end. 

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Getting Ready for Winter



As we approach winter, there are quite a few things you should do to protect your property and investment. Your trees, shrubs, lawn and perennials need help and the following are a few things that you should do.

  1. Perennials – cut them back now as the plants shut down and turn brown
  2. Remove leaves from the lawn and garden. Leaves left over winter can cause damage to your lawn and perennials. They harbor diseases, can cause fungus, it hides mice and, if left on the grass, will cause it to become brown.
  3. Bulbs – plant bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinth and crocus
  4. Mulch – apply a small amount of mulch around your perennials and shrubs to insulate them from the winter frost and help them retain moisture.
  5. Water – until the ground freezes, it is good to make sure that your plants and trees have enough moisture to help them through the winter. Thoroughly soaking them once a week is recommended.
  6. Weed – if you do weed now, it stops them from developing further and gives your beds a good start for the spring.
  7. Cover – in windy areas, you will want to cover your newly planted evergreens with burlap to prevent chilling winds from drying out and causing winter burn on your plants or you can spray them with an anti-desiccant (see below)
  8. Dormant oil – use this on deciduous trees to prevent spring insect damage
  9. Anti-desiccant – spray this on your trees and shrubs to help prevent water loss during the winter

Glenn Koleda, our agronomics specialist, highly recommends the Anti-desiccant to help your trees and shrubs maintain moisture during the winter months. With the ground frozen and long dry periods that occur in winter, your plants will start to dry out and get winter burn. If this happens, you will notice that their needles and leaves will start to turn brown and die. Glenn applies anti-desiccant when the daytime temperatures consist of 3 days of 35 degree daytime temperatures.

This is a good time to prune back your ornamental grasses. An easy way to do this is to use a bungee cord or duct tape, wrap the cord or tape around the grass about 8” up from the base.

Truesdale’s Shrub & Bed program includes us coming out the beginning of November to cut back your perennials and get your beds ready for winter. If you do not have this service, give us a call.

Doing a little preventative maintenance now can help ensure the health and beauty of your landscape.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Great Idea: Fall Planting



Did you know that fall is one of the best times to plant trees, shrubs and perennials? 

Spring might seem the best time to plant, but it can also result in a competition between roots and new shoots for water and nutrients. Because the tops of the plants are dormant and not growing during the fall and winter, they direct their energy reserves towards root growth. As a result, fall-planted trees and shrubs will have better established root systems when spring arrives, making them more able to support the new growth and foliage that comes in that season. As long as the soil temperature is above 40 degrees the roots will continue to grow. Fall planting takes advantage of favorable soil temperatures and moisture conditions that promote the root growth needed to sustain plants through their critical first year in the landscape. 

The added root growth also aids the plants during the stressful heat and drought of the summer months, potentially reducing the amount of supplemental water required to keep the plants alive. There are usually not enough roots on newly planted ornamentals to satisfy the water demand of both the shoots and leaves, and wilting may occur. This is called transplant shock and this condition requires frequent watering and diligence to prevent the plant from dying. During the fall and early winter months, the soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in range that promote rapid root development. 

Plant health often depends on root health and, in the fall, the warm soil encourages root growth until the ground freezes. In early spring, the roots begin new growth and continue to develop before the top of the plant begins to develop leaves, flowers and new stems. This gives fall planted plants and advantage. Their roots are well-established before summer arrives and are far better equipped to deal with heat and drought. 

Most container-grown and balled and burlapped deciduous trees and shrubs are excellent candidates for fall planting. These plants usually possess well-developed root systems. 

One last point is that since people don’t think of planting in the fall and nurseries don’t have a large stock to choose from, the best buys can be found in nurseries at this time. So if you are price savvy, this is the perfect time to buy.

Email or call us today.

Just to summarize, the main advantages to planting in fall are:
  • More root growth than in spring. 
  • Head start on Spring for establishing roots. 
  • Moisture is less of a problem, therefore plants need less watering. 
  • Less competition between roots and new growth. 
  • Transplant shock is reduced. 
  • Soil temperature is conducive to root growth. 
  • Lower prices on nursery stock. 


Wednesday, August 1, 2012

The Process of Lawn Core Aeration and Overseeding



With this summer’s cruel heat, lawns are taking a major hit. To keep your lawn looking beautiful, lush and green, core aeration, a process highly recommended by industry professionals, may be necessary to revive a stressed out lawn. The process essentially provides the lawn roots and soil with oxygen that will stimulate healthy growth by:
  • Improving water infiltration
  • Loosening compacted soil
  • Increasing oxygen to roots
  • Improving nutrient availability
  • Stimulating root growth
  • Reducing thatch

Culprits of a Dry Lawn
Foot traffic will compact the soil over time, this squeezing of soil chokes the lawn and it becomes starved for water, nutrients and air. Any lawn that receives a high amount of foot traffic is most at risk of depleting the root systems essential nutrients. Dry heat and insufficient watering can also stress a lawn. Depleted moisture levels over a long period of time will surely cause a lawn to have a scorched earth look and feel.

The Process of Core Aeration
Core aeration is mechanical processes performed in the late summer or early fall. The process removes plugs of soil from the ground and leaves them on the surface of the turf. These holes allow the roots to breathe receive air and water and immediately stimulates root growth. The plugs themselves contain microorganisms that will feed on the organic matter and aid in the prevention of soil compaction. It’s not the prettiest sight but after a couple of weeks your lawn will regain its health and look – your property will be completely transformed.

Over-Seeding Option
It’s highly recommended to use the small holes created by core aeration to your advantage and over-seed the lawn immediately after any core aeration is performed. This will eliminate any bare spots, revitalize grass growth and implement new disease and bug resistant grass.

After Care for Recently Aerated Lawns
After aerating a lawn, continue giving the lawn one inch of water twice a week. Also, do not cut the lawn for two week. Aerating your lawn at the right time with the proper equipment can ensure that you have a beautiful yard, every season of the year.

The Result
Core aeration will give your property a second chance after being affected by the harsh climate or other environmental factors. Core aerating your property is an important step to ensuring your lawn has a beautiful and long lasting life. Truesdale Landscape Services will make sure your lawn is aerated at the right time of year and with the best care. We have professional equipment and expertise that will provide your lawn with all of the essential support it needs.
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Keep These Tips in Mind

  • If dealing with newly planted lawns, wait at least a year to aerate so that the grass is well established.
  • Avoid aerating during drought or high heat. Aerating in these conditions, will stress the lawn by allowing the soil to dry. 
  • Aeration can spread weed seeds and portions of weedy roots so make sure to control weeds before beginning to aerate. 
  • Aerate prior to fertilizing or reseeding your lawn because aeration creates openings for nutrients and seed to penetrate soil.

    Drastic Dry Heat

    Plants and lawns have taken a major toll this summer due to the drastic heat waves. The combination of high temperatures and lack of rain this season have been putting properties under a tremendous amount of stress. For those of you who take pride in having a green lush yard you need to double your effort when dealing with this summer’s heat. With the temperatures being as hot as they are, 50 percent of water actually evaporates before it soaks into the ground so watering at the right time for the right amount of is a must. The best thing to do is water early in the morning and/or late in the afternoon when the sun is low. 

    When a lawn appears to be straw colored and crispy you should attend to it right away because the growth tends to be stunted. A sure sign that any lawn is suffering will be the appearance of brown spots where the water is not reaching. The easiest solution to keeping your lawn green is sprinklers. If you do not have in ground sprinklers, the generic hose fitting sprinklers work just as well. 

    Not only are lawns taking a major hit this summer but so are everyday plants. It can be easy to forget that plants need just as much water as a dry lawn. Not only do newly planted items need to be watched carefully but so do well-established trees and plants. This means that the plants you have had for years and normally never had to worry about are even at risk. If you start to notice your plants yellowing starting from the bottom up, that is a sure sign it is water deprived. Other signs of dehydration are wilting, dropping, and browning leaves. Homeowners in the New Jersey area should be extra concerned if they have evergreens or a Japanese maple on their property because these are especially sensitive to the summer heat and are vulnerable to sun burning. 

    Keeping your yard healthy is not a complicated task; the simple fact is your property needs hydration just like every other living species. Watering is an easy job that only takes a short period of time from your day. Leave your sprinklers on 30-40 minutes a day in each spot and you will have a stunning healthy property. It is easy to forget to water but scheduling it into a daily plan will ensure your yard will stay beautiful, even during the driest temperatures. 

    Thursday, July 5, 2012

    Perennials That Pop


    Now that summer is in full bloom, perennial gardens are starting to pop! This is the time perennial gardens take center stage with vibrant, long lasting flowers that can handle the summertime heat. The key to a perfect perennial garden is balancing color and size. The more colorful and vibrant your flowers are the more noticeable they will be. Truesdale Landscape Services can provide a perennial garden that will be planted with tender care and precision. Types of perennial gardens include: pool scape, patio scape, and every day scape garden that flourish during the summertime. 
    Poolside Perennials

    The Hogan residence, pictured above, is a beautiful example of what a thriving poolside perennial garden should consist of:
    Coreopsis Lilies
    Ferns
    Shasta Daisies
    Salvia plants
    Veronicas

    The hydrangea bush adds a touch of elegance to the area as well. Not only is this family able to enjoy their beautiful pool during the summer days but they also get to enjoy the gorgeous blooming flowers and shrubs that are planted around it.

    Every Day Perennial Gardens

    Everyday perennial gardens can make a property look like something straight out of a magazine. The Dinizo residence has let their perennials transform the yard into a colorful oasis. Although in every perennial garden you want to have plants that are meant to flower for fall, spring and summer, summer is the time where perennial gardens start to really catch the eye. Some plants that endure the summertime climate very well are:
    Shasta Daisies
    Asiatic Lilies
    Coreopsis Moonbeam
    Enchinacea
    Beebomb flowers

    Blacked-eyed Susans and day lilies also are very common in summer perennial gardens. Truesdale master gardener, Linda Dinizo mixes catmint in with her flowers to spice up the garden. Perennial gardens can work with either shade or sun depending on the flowers. Whatever your preference, Truesdale can plant a garden that will bloom throughout the seasons!

    Patio Perennials

    The Delmauro residence showcases a patio perennial garden. When dealing with perennial gardens like this one, it is best to plant them in height order so that the tall plants are towards the back and the small flowering plants are in the front. For the best outcome, the flowers should be planted in clumps so that it’s an eye pop full of color. As you can see, this is a great way to create privacy and offer a warm secluded space to enjoy.

    Truesdale offers a wide variety of perennials that can transform your property into your long awaited dream. We have advanced knowledge and expertise dealing with plants; we will make sure that you are satisfied along every step of the way. Our shrub and bed care program involves three yearly visits, one visit per season - spring, summer, and fall. Our crews will make sure your property is cut and cleaned to perfection. We are experts in perennial gardens and would love to give you a show off worthy property.
    Email or call us today.



    Sunday, July 1, 2012

    Protect your family and pets from fleas and ticks this summer!








    Summer’s here and has brought a few unwelcome guests along. It looks like nature is getting an early start on flea and tick season this year, but that’s no reason to stay indoors. With the past winter being so mild, we may be expecting an over load of these pests throughout the summertime. Eliminating flea and tick infestations requires treating your home and your lawn with the proper products that only a licensed agronomic specialist can apply safely. With Truesdale’s guidance, you can enjoy the beautiful landscape and weather without the worry of these pests.


    Although fleas are not harmful to your lawn these miniscule creatures from the spider family can cause trouble everywhere else. Fleas cause


    health problems for humans and pets since they feed on the blood of mammals to survive. It is necessary that you take the precaution and rid your lawn and garden of fleas for the protection of your family and pets. Ticks are even more dangerous because they carry and transmit aggressive and life-threatening diseases such as Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted fever. They are not harmful to turf but are extremely harmful to any human or mammal they latch to as a food source.


    It is very hard to identify fleas, as well as ticks, so it is necessary that you take the precautionary steps when dealing with these types of bugs. Spraying for tick and flea prevention or treatment will allow you and your family to be safe and healthy while enjoying the nature of your back yard. A systematic approach of several applications is required to keep your property clear of an infestation.


    Only two or three applications will be needed to control these pests. Our agronomic specialist, Glenn Koleda, has expert advice and advanced knowledge of bug infestation. He can walk you through our different agronomics programs and help you select one that fits your needs and budget. So don’t let the summer bug you! Contact us today for a free lawn analysis and estimate.












     

    Friday, June 1, 2012

    Summer Agronomic Problems and Solutions


    Summer is around the corner which means homeowners need to be aware and prepare for the problems they may face dealing with lawn care as well as the damaging heat that may harm trees and shrubs.

    Chinch Bugs and Grub
    Chinch bugs and Grub pests can destruct even the best lawn care program. Chinch bugs use sharp mouth parts to draw sap and insert toxins into the crowns and stems of grass plants causing extensive damage to your lawn. Chinch bug infestation is usually discovered when irregular patches of grass begin to turn yellow and then straw colored. Watering is not the solution to this problem. These patches will continue to become larger even if you are consistently watering. Damage normally occurs during the hotter, dryer weather from June into September. Usually, the best timing for chinch bug control treatment is in early June. Our lawn care specialist, Glenn Koleda, will recommend a program that integrates both curative chinch bug treatments and preventive measures in order to maintain maximum pest control in your lawn. Grub pests which reside and live under the grass may pose an even larger problem to a homeowner’s lawn. A Grub pest eats the roots of your grass which may cause you to not realize its presence until the grass starts to die. Results of grub damage will include dead grass, plants and flowers.

    Summer Heat
    The oncoming summer heat may be especially damaging to your tree and shrub layout causing the infestation of Spider Mites. Early detection is essential for spider mite control. The first sign of an infestation is the damage they do to leaves. This is usually seen first as a speckling or white dotted pattern on the leaves. Underneath these leaf dots will be mites that are barely seen with the naked eye. A magnifying glass may be a good investment when detecting this infesting insect. Bronzing, stippling and burning on the top side of leaves are signs of the presence of spider mites. Damaged leaves turn yellow, dry up and drop from the plant. Another method to detect Spider Mites is to hold a white sheet of paper under a plant and shake the plant. Mites will fall off onto the paper as tiny black dots. A single monthly treatment to prevent mite outbreaks is an easy solution to this problem!

    Lawn and Plant Fungus
    Powdery mildew, caused by the microsphaera alni fungus, usually starts on older lilac leaves around July. Although powdery mildew usually won't kill your lilac bushes, it can ruin their appearance and can reduce or stop next season's blooming.
    Conditions favorable to fungus development include:
    • Warm and/or humid weather
    • Too much shade
    • Over fertilization
    • Crowding
    • Over-watering
    Not only are lilacs very susceptible to fungus throughout the summer days, Kentucky Bluegrass does not tolerate mildew as well. If your Kentucky Bluegrass lawn looks extraordinarily dry you may have a fungus problem. Watering the infected grass will end up agitating the lawn even more. An antifungal control is the best way to solve your fungus problem.

    Our lawn care expert, Glenn Koleda uses a broad spectrum fungus control that will leave your lawn beautiful and green throughout every season. It is not too late to apply an application which will act as a 21 day preventative or that can cure the plant altogether. It’s always best to prevent a problem - early detection will give you the upper hand when opposing this pest. Glenn Koleda has extensive training and knowledge that can take care of any of your problems. Call us today and we will be more than happy to work with you to get the best possible outcome for your lawn. Email or call us today. 

    Tuesday, May 1, 2012

    Plant, Insect and Disease Control



    Spring is four weeks ahead of schedule and that could mean a potential pest infestation for homeowners – especially since the past winter was mild. Agronomic specialist Glenn Koleda is extremely concerned, he states, “I’ve already seen aphids and soft scale this year which means even more will hatch within the next few months.”
    Aphids, also known as plant lice are small sap sucking insects that cause curling, yellowing and leaf distortion. Soft scales remove sap from plants and cause yellowing of leaves and overall plant decline. Aphids and soft scale also produce sticky excrement which may grow a black sooty mold fungus. For protection against aphids, soft scale and other pests, Truesdale recommends an application of Insect and Disease Control. An I&D application is a 30-day preventative, as well as a solution to curtail pests that have already hatched. Delaying this application could result in such a severe infestation, trees and shrubs will need to be replaced.
    Another application recommended in May or June is a fungicide preventative to protect plants throughout the summer. All trees and shrubs are at risk of fungus during the hot humid months of July. A major fungus in our area this year will be cedar apple rust; which, presents as orange specks on the leave of crab apple trees. If left untreated the fungus will spread as soon as the environment is humid enough for it to thrive. Once this occurs, the crab apple tree will defoliate and this means in July the tree will have no leaves. This is just one example of thousands that could destroy your trees and shrubs. A fungicide application applied soon will offer protection now and throughout the hot humid month of July when fungus becomes a major issue for all trees and shrubs.
    Either of these applications can be applied within 10-15 minutes and they are safe for animals and children. If you have any questions about an existing condition or the Truesdale Tree & Shrub program, please call our office to make an appointment with our agronomic specialist, Glenn Koleda. 

    Wednesday, February 1, 2012

    Landscape With Computer Design


    Truesdale offers state-of-the-art computer-aided landscape design. This allows our customers to visualize their finished landscape project before we even begin. Truesdale owner and landscape design expert, Ralph Dinizo, will come out to your home, take pictures and discuss your design ideas.

    Ralph will then use his expertise not only with the Computer Design program, but also his many years as a landscaper to scientifically choose the proper plants, soils, etc. for the particular location on your property you have chosen to change. He will take into consideration sunlight, drainage, wind exposure and your existing plants and landscape. And, with what you had discussed with him, he will create a visual look by working with the pictures he took of your property. 

    With these pictures, you can see what can be done and how it would look. Any questions you have can be addressed at this stage – colors, type of plants, type of design, etc. You will not have to wait until the project is complete before you have a concept of how it will look.

    An attractive, well designed landscape will substantially increase the value of your home and enhance your quality of life. Using the computer design process will allow you to view, make changes and have more input on how the final result will look.

    Please note that our first design is free, but any additional designs will cost a small fee. This fee will be credited back upon completion of the finished project.

    See your property in a whole new light and watch it come to life with Truesdale’s expertise. We are taking appointments now for early March so that projects can begin as soon as the weather permits. Call us today to set up an appointment.

    Thursday, December 22, 2011

    Protect Yourself from Storm Damage


    As this fall has proven, snow and ice can cause major damage to not only your trees and shrubs, but also your property. Getting an evaluation of your yard and knowing how to prevent possible damage is much easier and cheaper than trying to clean up the disaster after it occurs.

    This time of year is perfect to prepare your landscape for the snow to come. A tree’s survival may depend on the care that you give it before the storm happens. This is especially true for evergreens and hedges. The high winds, heavy ice and snow of winter can cause a great deal of strain. Most of the downed wires and property damage this fall was caused by improperly maintained trees.
    The removal of dead, diseased or broken branches will be beneficial to the overall health of the tree and prevent costly and dangerous storm damage. Pruning aids in maintaining the shape, vigor and health of the plant.

    Your trees and shrubs are your investment. You should make sure and preserve them by taking proper care of them. For peace of mind, call Truesdale for an evaluation.

    Thursday, December 1, 2011

    Winter Planting, Watering and Pruning


    The best time to plant a tree is when the tree goes dormant; this is when the least amount of shock would occur to it. Fall and winter planting gives roots a chance to settle in during the cooler months so the tree gets a jump on the next growing season and is better equipped for summer’s heat.

    When do they go dormant?
    For Deciduous trees, it is very obvious when they go dormant. The dropping of their leaves in autumn signals that they are entering dormancy and when you see buds on the trees in spring, this signals that they are leaving their dormant cycle.
    For Evergreens, you have more leeway on when you can plant. However, you will want to hold off planting until the warm weather ends and you will want to finish your plantings before the heat of summer begins.

    Winter Watering
    Although you may not think of winter as “dry” remember that you will still need to make sure that your new plantings get enough moisture. Even if there is snow during the winter, the ground does not absorb any of the water until it starts to melt.

    Proper Watering for Winter

    During dry periods in the winter, use your hose and water all of your plant materials. On a sunny day above freezing, turn your hose on a light drip and let it soak the trees for about 15 minutes. For shrub, you will want to do this for about 5 minutes and for perennials about 2 minutes. This will help root development, especially on anything newly planted.
    Winter Pruning
    Pruning deciduous plants in the winter promotes fast regrowth in the spring, as most plants are dormant during the winter. It is also easier to see the shapes of deciduous plants in the winter, since their foliage is gone.

    Why Prune?
    Reasons to prune in winter:
    • Remove dead, diseased and damaged areas
    • Prevent injury or damage due to weak branches
    • Preparation for storm damage from snow and ice
    • Better to trim correctly without foliage cover
    Use this time of year to your advantage. Call us today at 908-834-2675 for winter planting and pruning. 

    Tuesday, November 1, 2011

    Fall Into Spring: What you do now will effect what happens in the Spring



    November is a perfect time of year to straighten out your plantings and get the lawn ready for winter; which, in turn, will get it ready for Spring.

    As plants begin their dormant cycle, they can be safely dug and replanted. So, look at where your Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Peonies, etc. are currently and decide if this is where you would like them to remain.

    Want to add a new tree or shrub to your yard?

    This is also a good time of year to add a new tree or shrub to your yard. Fall planting encourages healthy root development and gives the plants a chance to get established before the spring growing season next year.

    And, what about your current trees and shrubs? You should fertilize them before they go dormant to prepare them for the winter and get them ready for the spring. Usually you will want to do this in October and the beginning of November. Taking the time to fertilize in the fall will strengthen your plant roots giving them a strong base on which to thrive next spring. When you have strong roots, you have healthy plants with numerous flowers.


    Plants need help, too.

    Using an anti-desiccant will help plants from drying out during the long winter months. It is a spray that will aid against moisture loss. We recommend that you do this around the first week in December. Plants can experience debilitating moisture loss during extremes of heat, cold, high winds and in the transplanting process. As the ground freezes, plants are unable to draw up essential moisture, so the leaves begin to sacrifice their stored moisture. Your Lawn Care expert will be able to let you know which plants will benefit the most from this service.







    Monday, August 1, 2011

    Core Aeration and Overseeding


    Aerating your lawn is important for healthy growth. Over time thatch builds up and soil is compacted which makes it difficult for your lawn to get the oxygen, water and nutrients that it needs. Compacted soil happens for many reasons. A few main reasons are hot weather – which causes the ground to lose moisture, thatch build up and heavy foot traffic. 
    Over-seeding introduces high quality grass seed to your lawn and will help your lawn get thicker and healthier.

    What is Core Aeration?

    Core Aeration is a mechanical process that removes small “plugs” of your soil and thatch. This loosens the soil and allows for water, oxygen and nutrients to reach the roots. Meanwhile the “plugs,” which contain bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms feed on organic matter and help keep thatch from increasing, will remain on top of your lawn and over several weeks will disappear back into your lawn.
    • Benefits of Core Aeration for your lawn? 
    • Stimulates Root Growth 
    • Improves Water Infiltration 
    • Loosens Compacted Soil 
    • Increases Oxygen to the Roots 
    • Improves Nutrient Availability 
    • Reduces Thatch 

    The Best Time for Core Aeration? Fall is the best time to aerate while the lawn is still actively growing. Earlier time should be chosen for areas in heavy shade and a later time for areas in full sun.


    Over-seeding is Recommended with Core Aeration

    Over-seeding will allow you to fill in bare spots, revitalize grass growth and implement new grass varieties that are more resistant to insect and disease problems. Because of the Core Aeration process, the seeds will fall into holes provided which allow them to quickly take root.

    Regular maintenance is not always enough, the Core Aeration process can help you avoid costly lawn renovations later on. As Glenn Koleda, our resident Lawn Care Expert says, “A lush healthy lawn begins with a lush healthy root system.” To find out more about what Glenn can recommend for your lawn, call us today for an appointment.

    Friday, July 1, 2011

    Brown Spots on Lawn – Homeowner Beware


    July is a time to truly look at your lawn and watch for fungus and insects. With the strong heat and humid conditions of June and July, fungus will start to grow on your lawn and, if caught early enough, it can be easily controlled. In addition to fungus, this is also the time that preventative measures should be done for insect control.

    Fungus is most active at 80-90 degree temperatures when the grass leaves stay wet for a long time. You will notice circular patches on your lawn. If the brown areas get larger, then you know you have a problem. If you catch it before it gets to 9” in diameter, then you might be able to get it under control. If you wait any longer, then it will become more difficult.
    How to correct the area? Use a fungicide. But the more important part is – early detection because prevention is easier than curative.
    Damaging bugs like the Chinch bug or the Grub are currently lying in wait and it is up to you and your local Lawn Care expert to control this infestation before it begins.

    Chinch bugs feed on the sap of the grass plants. They reside in the thatch area and feed on the lower leaf sheaths. Damaged areas start as small, irregular patches which enlarge. They are most damaging in open, sunny areas, starting in July or August.

    What to look for:
    • Patches of lawn which are mostly circular and that turn yellow then brown
    • These patches grow larger
    • There is more than 1/2 inch of thatch
    • The dead grass does not pull up easily
    To control chinch bugs, you will want to spray in late June or early July. This will help prevent any damage they might do to your property.

    Grubs also need to be controlled at this time of year or they, too, will destroy your lawn. Once you see the damage done by grubs, it is too late. So the best way to deal with them is to do a preventative control application. You will want to do this in late June or early July before they become adults. The timing of this application is very critical.

    Grubs are the larvae of Japanese beetles. They feed on the root system of your grass. When they pupate, they emerge as adult Japanese beetles.


    Watch for fungus and, if noticed, have a fungicide applied to your property. Spray for grubs and chinch bugs as a preventative measure so you do not have damage done in the summer. Glenn Koleda, our Lawn Care expert, states that "Lawn care is just like going to the dentist on a regular basis. Preventative maintenance is needed on both for them to remain healthy."

    Call us and we would be happy to take care of your Lawn Care needs. Glenn has extensive knowledge and training and can come discuss the needs of your lawn, trees and shrubs. Email or call us today. 

    Friday, May 13, 2011

    Maintaining Perennials

    Year In And Year Out, These Special Plants Provide An Abundance Of Joy
    While most seasoned gardeners and nurseries alike will recommend a mix of annuals and perennials in your garden, the task can seem quite daunting.
    As for the perennials (plants that grow back every year), questions abound. Where to start? What plants to select? How to plant?

    But not to worry. With a few simple techniques, you'll be able to sit back and watch your perennials flourish.

    "Perennials are a true joy for any gardener," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "To see the fruits of your labor literally come to life each spring is something very special."

     Start by assessing the status of your garden. Do you have lots of spreading plants that seem invasive? Do you have plants that are bushy and seem to be growing out of control? Are some plants that used to grow well growing poorly now? Does it seem that weeds are taking over? Are there plants you would like to replace? Look at the individual plants as well as the overall garden.

    An easy factor to fix is the need for fertilizer. Most plants benefit from regular feedings during the growing season. Use a good balanced fertilizer in one of several forms. Controlled release pellets (called prills) and the water-soluble types that are either mixed with water and sprinkled on or are used in a special dispenser attached to a watering hose are most popular. A good balanced fertilizer often does wonders to increase growth and enhance flowering. Remember compost is also a source of nutrients.

    A fertilizer high in nitrogen (the first number) will increase the growth of foliage, while a fertilizer high in phosphorous (the middle number) is good for root growth and flowering and is important in cell division. Using a fertilizer high in phosphorous but lower in nitrogen will help flowering species reach their full potential without focusing too much on leaf growth. Most perennials end up spindly and unattractive when high-nitrogen fertilizers are applied.

    Assess which plants need to be pruned. Some plants need pruning to control spreading and guide new shoot growth. Some plants need pruning to refresh and increase new growth or to remove old or damaged parts. Either way, the process is the same. Decide which shoots need to be cut, and figure out how far back the plant should be pruned. This can be purely aesthetic, based on your preference, or it can be based on where the damage occurs on the plant. Find the closest branching point (called a node) just below the area of damage or overgrowth, and make a 45-degree cut just above the branching point. Don't cut too near the node, or the cut may not heal; about ¼ inch above the joint is fine. If there is no branch, find a leaf with an intact axillary bud (the little bud between the top of the leaf and the stem of the plant) and make the cut just above the leaf. The bud will "break" and form another branch there. For smaller plants or herbaceous (not woody) growth, a cut may not be necessary. Many times, pinching off the extra branch is enough.

    Another aspect of perennial care is weeding. Much of work that should be done when installing the bed is removing perennial weeds, using a weed mat and mulching well. However, even a well-planned garden can fall prey to pesky weeds. Hand weeding the garden is most effective. It's vital to pull weeds before they mature so that they don't take needed nutrients from the perennials and leave seeds in the garden. Perennials have enough work growing without competing with weeds for food, water and space. Weed seeds can lay dormant in soil for long periods before germinating. Take care not to leave any sections of the weeds in the soil, for they will often grow back from small pieces of root or other plant material.

    After the weeding is done, consider the need for additional mulch. Mulch upkeep is one of the best maintenance practices available to keep a perennial garden healthy. Recommended mulches include many organic materials, from pine straw to shredded pine bark and compost. A layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep is recommended for most plants. The actual depth will depend on cost, personal preference and availability.
    Why do plants need mulch? There are several reasons -- weed control and reducing the need for watering, and temperature control for root protection. By covering the soil, mulch prevents the water in the soil from evaporating as quickly. By maintaining the moisture level in soil and providing insulation from hot and cold weather, mulch can help prevent extremes in air temperature from affecting the roots. Mulch also can protect the leaves of plants from soil washing or bouncing onto them. Another function of mulch is purely decorative. The garden simply looks better when the mulch is in place, framing the plants and providing an even, dark attractive background. Maintaining mulch is one of the best and easiest ways to help your garden grow.

    For plants spreading out of control, consider giving them more room by dividing them. This requires separating the plants by digging them up and pulling apart the plants and roots. This leaves you with intact plants ready to put back into the soil. You can divide most perennials every 3 to 5 years if desired, or you can leave them a little longer if they have room to thrive without crowding another species. Some plants may benefit from thinning, especially those that are overcrowded or prone to rot in the rain. Some silver-foliaged species are especially prone to rot. Wet, thick foliage tightly packed together will increase the tendency for disease problems.

    Flowering is another area where your perennials might need help. Many species will re-bloom if the old flowers are pulled off. This process is known as "deadheading." It allows the plant to re-bloom by preventing the flower from setting seed, which is the plant's goal for the season. It's important to deadhead flowers as soon as they fade. Some gardeners find this a rewarding way to spend time in the garden every afternoon. An added benefit of deadheading is the improved appearance of the plant. Removing the spent blossoms rejuvenates the garden's fresh look.

    Fortunately, perennials are forgiving, and the plants seem to always bounce back. Don't worry about "getting it perfect" as you work on your technique. Try your hand at some of these methods and see how well your garden grows!

    Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
    There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.

    Friday, May 6, 2011

    The Skinny On Annuals

     These Plants Are a Gift That Keeps Giving Each And Every Year
    Annuals or perennials? That is the question.
    One of the true joys of gardening is flower selection, and with this, gardeners are presented with an overwhelming number of choices. But it all begins with annuals or perennials. Or better yet, both.
    Annuals are flowers and other greens that you can plant and they will grow for that season only. Perennials will come back year after year.
    "We always recommend a mix between annuals and perennials," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premiere landscaping and nursery specialists. "While perennials provide constant beauty, annuals provide an opportunity to change things up a bit each year. It's a perfect combination." As for annuals, there are many pros and just a sole con.
    The pros of annuals are that they're available in a wide variety of sizes and colors and only last a year, so each year you can pick new and different plants. Annuals are also great fill-in plants while you wait for perennials to multiply.

    The cons? You must purchase and plant a new crop of annuals each year.

    Now with a plant that you only use for one year, you can always change what you have planted the next year. It is easy for you to take a plant one year and replace it with something else the next year.
    If you don’t want to have the same types of flowers year after year, this is a good option for you because each spring you can choose what you want to have bloom that summer, and you can pick something different for the next year. This works well for rental properties, so that the people living in the homes can plant different plants each spring. It is also advantageous because they are much easier to remove. If you have to replant a flowerbed, or if you want to move a flowerbed or redo your landscape, there is nothing that you have to dig up, because the plants die each fall.

    Maintaining Your Annuals
    Annuals can be one of the most trouble-free parts of the garden, yet they do require a few basic maintenance skills. Most annuals will perform well with little or no physical maintenance. But with almost all annuals, you will find that a little extra attention will improve their display and ensure that the display lasts as long as possible.

    Some basic tips:

    Water your annuals properly. Many bedding plants are tolerant of drought conditions, but in most cases they won't perform as well without regular water. The soil often contains a reserve of moisture below the surface, so plants in the ground can usually survive for surprisingly long periods of dry weather.

    Use watering aids to reduce the necessity for frequent watering. Adding organic material such as garden compost will help the soil retain moisture, and mulching with a layer of such material on the surface will reduce evaporation.

    Feed your annuals. Annuals planted in the ground will rarely need feeding, unless the soil is poor. Indeed, many will actually flower better in poor soil, merely growing leafy if over-fed.

    Separate seedling and thin bud growth. When new plants are first planted, it's a good idea to pinch out the leading shoot. This will encourage the plant to develop side-shoots and become bushy. You can remove the flower buds on the minor stems, leaving just those at the tip of the shoots to develop.

    Stake the taller growing annuals. Most annuals are now available in short forms that do not need staking. However, many varieties will need supports of some kind. Tie individual stems to canes for support. Large clumps can grow through special hoops or systems of linked stakes for this purpose. Alternatively, for a more natural look, use bamboo sticks or brushwood pushed into the ground around the plants, with a mesh of string tied between the sticks, if necessary.

    Deadhead and cut back. Take off flower heads as they die because this will promote prolonged flowering and make the plant look neater. At the same time, cut back any stems that are becoming too long or have finished flowering. New shoots will generally appear to replace them.
    As you can see, annuals provide a terrific source of joy for gardeners -- both in the selection and maintenance. Mix it up each year and you'll always be amazed at what your garden produces.

    Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
    There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.

    Friday, April 29, 2011

    Slit Seeding Why and How?

    An Uncommon Technique Produces Spectacular Results
    Your home is no doubt the centerpiece of your property -- the art in and of itself -- so think of your lawn as the frame to this piece of art.
    And with any art, you want your frame to enhance it, not detract from it.
    Thus, special attention must be given to your lawn, and particularly in this region, as we've witnessed unusually harsh winters and hot summers in recent years (most people don't realize, but we live in an area that experiences among the most extreme weather changes on earth).
    So if you're planting a new lawn, do it right! And one of the most effective ways to guarantee a lush and healthy lawn is slit seeding. Slit seeding utilizes a special machine (a slit seeder) that literally slits the ground and drops seeds in the cracks to give them deeper contact with the soil, ensures better growth, and protects from the elements, birds and other animals (a good rule of thumb when seeding is to 'feed the soil, not the birds.') "Most people aren't aware of slit seeding," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premier lawn care specialists. "But it's a process that works even better than sod, and is less expensive. We recommend this to all our customers looking to install a brand new lawn or renovate a lawn with problems."

    When to Use a Slit Seeder
    When seeding a lawn, it's very important to plant grass seeds directly in the soil. Most plots of ground have a "thatch" sitting on top of the soil, consisting of dead leaves, plants and other organic matter. If the grass seed is sown in the thatch rather than the soil, it will indeed germinate, but it will be weak.
    Slit seeders have discs that actually slice into the ground, and have additional equipment to then drop grass seeds into the resulting furrows. They eliminate some of the work and ensure better grass-growing success.

    How to Use a Slit Seeder
    Prepare your soil for grass seeding by removing any weeds, trash or rocks in the way. Your new grass seeds will grow best if there's no competition, so you want a clear area. Then measure the amount of land you're seeding, then calculate how much grass seed you need (consult the packaging or your local lawn care professional). Fill your slit seeder with your first load of grass seed, and walk the seeder in a straight line from one end of the lawn to the other. The seeder will sew grass seeds in rows with 2 to 6 inches of distance between them. Once you've done the whole lawn, reseed, walking cross ways, until there's a row of grass seed in each square inch. Water the lawn well when you've finished.

    "We've found that homeowners who slit seeded their lawn generally take more pride in the proper care going forward," added Dinizo. "This process seems to give the homeowner a truly vested interest and a real sense of accomplishment."

    Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
    There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.

    Saturday, April 23, 2011

    Knowing When & How To Seed Your Lawn


    This Is A Tricky Procedure That Must Be Handled Properly
    Spring has sprung, and it's a time of renewal for everything, from our minds to our bodies, from our landscaping to our lawns.

    Especially our lawns.
    As you take a walk around your property this time of year, you'll see the spring bulbs popping, the forsythia's blooming, the trees budding.
    And your lawn, while beginning to show new growth, is no doubt showing the effects of a particularly harsh winter like the one we just experienced.
    "This past winter was very rough on lawns in this area," said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J., one of the state's premier lawn care specialists. "It was one of the coldest and snowiest winters on record, and because of this, we're seeing many lawns in need of more attention this spring than usual."

    But fortunately, lawn growth can be controlled better than any other area of your landscaping, and this begins with proper reseeding. While fertilizing and pest control measures are also quite important, they can't happen if you don't have a full lawn bed to begin with. And while proper mowing and watering is also essential, "seeding a lawn is probably one of the most misunderstood aspects of proper turf maintenance," stressed Dinizo.

    Why Reseed?
    First, you need to assess the need for new lawn seeding before you proceed. Spots smaller than a salad plate, for example, will generally fill-in, assuming the lawn receives the recommended fertilization application that type of grass requires. But larger areas will need lawn repair.

    Spring Vs. Fall
    While fall is most commonly the best time to seed, spring reseeding is essential after a rougher than normal winter, as they lawn has been damaged. Which is why so many lawns in this area are now in need of reseeding. And pay close attention to shady areas of your lawn, being sure to reseed before the leaves open up for the season to allow sunlight to penetrate to the seeded area.

    What Kind Of Seed?
    Buy a cheap grass seed, and your lawn is going to look cheap and patchy. What's really best is to consult with a reputable lawn care professional to match the best seed to your existing lawn. By year's end, this is going to cost you less money, guaranteed.

    How Much Seed?
    Too much seed -- not too little -- is the most common reason reseeding may not take. One pound of seed may not seem like much, but that amount can contain more than one million seeds! When too much seed is placed in a small area, the competition for space is intense. Seeds growing too close can cause seedling blights, which can kill a newly seeded area overnight. Using a spreader with the proper settings is crucial, and again, this is something your lawn care professional can provide answers or help with.

    Preparing The Area
    Remove the dead grass by raking it, and break up the ground a bit to loosen it. This will provide for ideal growth conditions. You may also want to add some bagged topsoil on the spot before seeding a lawn, but this can also add unknown weed seeds into the area. Larger areas may require equipment like a slit-seeder, core aerator, power rake, or rototiller, and at this point it's best (and cheaper in the long run) to hire a lawn service to do the work.

    Watering & Mowing
    Keep the seeded areas moist for 14 to 21 days to ensure good germination. Mornings or early afternoons are best. Light, frequent watering is better than infrequent, heavy watering. Mow as you normally would. This will not hurt the new growth (but keep foot traffic to a minimum). Continue the watering methods mentioned above through 2-3 mowing cycles, then reduce to the usual watering schedule from there. Long story short, while Dinizo is quick to provide straightforward do-it-yourself advice in the areas of gardening and other landscaping, when it comes to reseeding, "it's really best to have it handled by a lawn care professional. "This is too tricky of a project to get wrong, as your lawn is the dominant part of your landscaping," concluded Dinizo.

    Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
    There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.

    Saturday, April 16, 2011

    New Jersey's New Fertilizer Law Primer


    Designed To Protect The State's Water Resources, It Doesn't Mean You Can't Have
    A Beautiful Lawn.

    While perhaps nothing gives a homeowner more pride than a lush and green lawn each summer, the state of New Jersey has put measures in place beginning in 2011 with a new fertilizer law designed to safeguard the state's precious water resources.
    The state is not telling you not to enjoy a lush and green lawn this year, but rather to do it safely by monitoring the fertilizing process. And while the new law can be a bit laborious to follow, working with a local lawn care professional can help you to safely follow the stipulations for the long-term good of our beautiful Garden State.
    "One of the biggest questions we've been asked this spring is 'how do I make sense of the new fertilizer law?,'" said Ralph Dinizo, President of Truesdale Nursery & Landscape Services of Berkeley Heights, N.J. "It's a law that may seem to have a lot of components to it, but it's really quite easy to follow, and it's for the right reasons in protecting the state."
    In order to better understand the why's and how's of the new fertilizer law, here's a brief overview:
    What Is This New Fertilizer Law All About?
    Water quality is at the heart of this law. It still allows you to feed your lawn, but in a way that avoids adverse impact on New Jersey waters. Barnegat Bay was becoming more polluted and life in its waters was actually changing, such as an increased jellyfish population. The state determined lawn fertilizer was likely a major contributor to this -- runoff into storm drains, streams, or leaching into groundwater, and eventually finding its way into waterways.
    How Does This State Law Impact Municipality Laws?
    Many municipalities already have their own fertilizer laws. However, the new state law supersedes all local mandates.
    How Do I Know How Much Fertilizer To Now Apply?
    While the packaging may include the new limits, this verbiage is not required until 2013. In the interim, consult with your local lawn care professional for the most accurate calculations. You can also determine amounts by visiting http://rutgersnjfertilizerapp.blogspot.com.
    WHEN Should I Not Apply Fertilizer?
    The new law prohibits fertilizer application between November 15 and March 1. Also don’t apply fertilizer during or just before a heavy rain. Don’t leave it on an impervious surface like pavement – sweep up any fertilizer that falls onto this type of surface. Don’t apply it to frozen ground. Runoff is higher in all these instances.
    WHERE Can I Not Apply Fertilizer?
    Buffer zones exist around bodies of water for obvious runoff reasons. Fertilizer containing nitrogen or phosphorus cannot be applied within 25 feet of a body of water, unless application is via drop spreader, rotary spreader with a deflector, or as a targeted spray liquid. When these methods are used, the buffer zone may be reduced to 10 feet.
    Where Do I Get Help If I Need It?
    There are a multitude of resources on the Internet. And of course your local lawn care professional is just a phone call away. Truesdale is here to help. CLICK HERE to contact us today.