Stop Winter Snow and Salt from Damaging Your Landscape!

Every year, lawns and landscape shrubs take brutal damage from de-icers, snow piles, and plows.  We want to keep the sidewalks and pavements clear of ice and snow, but we wind up costing ourselves valuable plants in the process.  What can be done?

First – Plant with Winter Thoughts
When you plant your shrubs, remember to think about your snow removal process.  Do you plow up your driveway and dump the snow at the top? If so, make sure that landscape plants will not be damaged if placed in that area.  Or, does the snow plow with rock salt come down your street and put a constant barrage of snow and salt on the front of your property? If so, it might be best not to plant right along the street.

Some suggestions: If you already have plants near the road, you might want to provide a barrier, for example, you may wrap them in burlap to try and protect them, or put up a snow fence.

Second – Shrubs Are NOT Proper Locations for Snow Piles
Shoveling is hard work and putting that snow in the closest location is very tempting – but DON’T!  Piling snow onto your shrubs will cause damage that they might not recover from. This is especially true if there are large amounts of snow that do not melt right away.  Heavy snow will bend the branches and disfigure or kill them.  Don’t put snow on the plants, instead, try to take any heavy snow off of them.

Pre-snow suggestion:  You may also prepare your trees and shrubs ahead of time with proper pruning and bracing. 

Third – Choose your De-Icer Wisely
Not all de-icers will cause damage.  The most used one is rock salt (chloride) but this is very caustic and will cause damage to pavers, concrete, cars, plants and lawns.  If you use this, use it sparingly, especially near your lawn and plants.  Remember that when the salt melts the ice, the run-off can go into your lawn areas.

Other de-icers? Calcium Chloride is less harmful to plants but it is still corrosive to concrete and metal.  Magnesium chloride can be a good option. Calcium Magnesium Acetate is the most expensive but, when used correctly, is low in toxicity and the most environmentally safe.

Using a de-icer sparingly and shoveling more often will help, as well as using a de-icer that is less caustic to your property.

After Winter Snow and Ice Melt
Wait until the snow and ice have fully melted before assessing any damage.  You will be able to see at that point any spots where salt may have affected your plants, or the weight of the snow might have bent the branches.  And, of course, call Truesdale so we can help you.  Our experts will walk the property with you and advise you of what is truly damaged and what will bounce back in spring.

Winter Pruning

Winter is the perfect time to prune your deciduous trees.  

Why Prune in Winter? 

Once the trees lose their leaves, you can view the structure of the trees more easily. This can make it easier to see what needs to be done and see any problems that should be taken care of.  

Winter is also the dormant time for these trees.  This means that the fresh wounds will only be exposed for a short time and that the insects/diseases that are more prevalent in Spring, are not attacking your wounded tree in Winter. 

Pruning in winter also promotes faster regrowth in Spring.

What are the Benefits of Pruning?

First, it is about safety.  You should cut back branches that have overgrown in areas that could be annoying or dangerous – for example, over walkways and driveways. Also, branches that have overlapped and can cause damage to each other can be pruned so that the healthier branch will remain.  And, lastly, removing dead or dying branches now is better than a storm breaking them and causing damage to other plants, property or yourself.

Pruning allows sunlight and air into the center of the tree – just enough to promote healthy growth. 

Beauty is the last, yet still important, reason to prune. To cut back the branches and foresee what the tree will look like in spring as it gives out its new growth. 

Pruning is something you can do yourself, or you can call an expert to do it.  If are unable to safely prune, please call someone who can.  And, remember, Truesdale can always help.

October Lansdcaping Tips

October is a great month to get all the last minute items done on your property.  It is still warm enough … but not for long.  The following are some items you should accomplish before it gets too cold.

Landscaping

·       Continue planting trees and shrubs.

·       Transplant trees and shrubs.

·       Planting of ornamental Kale, Mums, etc., which will decorate your property for Fall.

Beds

·       Clean perennial beds – deadhead blooms, prune to shape or cut back dead foliage.

·       Mulch to a depth of 2” for winter protection

·       Remove leaves from beds.

·       Continue to edge beds.

·       Prune – make sure it is the proper time for the particular plant, though.

·       Continue to water, especially new plantings.

Lawn

·       Mow lawn, as needed.

·       Remove leaves from lawn.

·       Fertilize lawn

·       Core Aerate and Overseed, if not already done. You can do this through mid-October.

Need help with any of these items, or have any questions, give Truesdale Landscaping a call.

Leaf Scorch Damage

The heat of summer has caused quite a bit of damage to our plants, trees and lawns.  Currently you might notice that many of the leaves have edges that are brown.  This is called “Leaf Scorch” and is a condition caused by the hot summer we just experienced. This is not caused by disease or insects, but by the environment. Conditions such as drought, high temperature, winds, and improper watering will allow the plant to suffer. During these conditions, not enough moisture has reached the outer leaves and the exposed leaves have dried out and scorched.

Leaf Scorch is characterized by a yellowing along the edges or veins of the leaf.  As the leaves turn brown in those areas, it becomes the most noticeable and, it is at this time that the leaves will not recover.  It is most severe on the outer leaves, especially those that face the sun.  

What can you do?

Once leaf scorch has occurred, there is no cure.  The leaves that have already turned brown will not recover, BUT as long as you water properly, the rest of the plant should survive. Deep watering is recommended – a slow, deep soaking of the soil at the roots.  During hot weather, watering the roots of each plant for 1-2 minutes in the spring and up to 10 minutes in the summer, every other day, is usually sufficient. When the weather gets cooler, you may water less.  This is very important for the plant, especially for the young trees who are still establishing their root systems.  Deep watering helps to prevent leaf scorch by making sure the plant will receive enough moisture for even those outer leaves. 

Unfortunately, over-watering can be just as bad.  Test the soil to see how it is.  Early morning watering is the best time, before the water will be evaporated by the heat of day.  Mulch can also help retain moisture at the roots. 

Fertilization in Fall will help the plant by giving it back some nutrients it lost during the stress of summer.  This is highly recommended for all trees and shrubs that have survived this harsh summer – whether they were damaged by leaf scorch or not.

Need an evaluation of your trees and shrubs? Contact us and we will evaluate your property for free. 

Don’t Kill Your Plants – Water!

Plants need water to live. Besides that, there are no “rules” to watering – it is a judgement call. The amount of water depends on the type of plant, weather, time of year, and many other issues. What is the best thing to do? Check the soil!

The most effective way to water your plants is to use a soaker hose and remember that it is the roots that will need the water. Focus on the roots. If you do get water on the foliage, make sure that it is early enough in the day that the water will dry off before nightfall. Water on foliage overnight, allows for the spread of fungus and diseases.

For established plants, deep, infrequent watering is recommended. In most cases, an inch of water per week should be sufficient. For new plantings, a slow trickle from a garden hose for 45-60 minutes should be adequate. For trees and larger shrubs two waterings a day may be required.

Overwatering can also be detrimental to your plants. Water only when needed. Test the soil before watering. If your tree or plant is in the shade, it will, most likely, require less water.

Here are some tips:
1. Water only when necessary – check the soil. Over watering can be detrimental to your plants, too.
2. Water at the base of the plant. Water will then go right to the root system where it is needed.
3. Water in the morning. Watering in the morning is best because the water will reach the roots and will not be fighting with evaporation from the sun and heat.
4. Water with a soaker hose, if possible. If not, use a regular hose. Although sprinklers are great, they do not always reach the roots and get enough water to the plant. This is especially true with new trees and shrubs.
5. Mulch is important. We recommend that a maximum of 2-3 inches of organic mulch be maintained on shrub or perennial beds. Mulching helps to retain moisture, stabilize ground temperature and prevent weeds.

We hope that this helps you during the spring and summer months, especially. Please do not rely solely on rain – it will not be enough, especially with new plantings.

Dandelions, Plantains and Wild Onions – Spring Weeds have Emerged

Although a field of dandelions looks beautiful, this weed is usually not a welcome addition to a lovely green lawn.  In addition to dandelions, this time of year you will notice wild onions and plantains.  These weeds can push out healthy lawns and sap the water and nutrients your lawn needs. Unfortunately, in order to rid your lawn of these weeds, you will need a good herbicide. 

Dandelions can have 40-100 seeds in one seed head.  They are very prolific and are able to reproduce in any little crack they can find.  Seeds can travel several miles with a good wind, so this becomes a yearly fight for your lawn.  A good broadleaf herbicide can help eliminate these weeds from your lawn – but make sure to do this early before they flower – a pre-emergent is best. Broadleaf herbicides are made to kill these weeds specifically and not to harm your grass. You will want to take care of the dandelions before the white, fluffy seed heads emerge.

Plantain is a broadleaf weed.  The best way to prevent plantains is to aerate compacted soil and to fertilize on a regular basis.  Healthy grass will push out the plantains but a poor lawn will be overgrown by them.  These weeds need to be sprayed or removed prior to them producing seeds. Post emergent herbicides are best in controlling them.

Wild Onions are recognizable by their thin, waxy, tall stems and that they grow in clumps.  Also the scent is noticeable when they are mowed.  Wild Onions are difficult to control.  You can try and remove them, but the bulbs can break off easily and if you do not remove the full bulb, they can propagate from that.  Again, you will want to take care of these before they seed. Even after you think you have removed/killed them from an area, you will need to keep an eye on the area for regrowth.  Keeping the weed trimmed will help it from going to seed and spreading to the rest of your lawn.  Pre-emergent herbicides do not work on these weeds. A good post emergent herbicide will work but may require several applications throughout the year.

All of these weeds can be controlled with a good, broadleaf herbicide which will attack only these weeds and not kill your lawn.  Fortunately, our lawn expert, Glenn Koleda, knows the proper way of dealing with these and other lawn issues.  Glenn would be happy to assess your lawn for you – call us today for a free evaluation.

Winter Damage to Your Landscape Plants and Trees

Long winters with snow, ice and extreme cold can create a lot of damage to landscape plants.  There are both natural and man made problems that can occur.  How can you tell which are major problems and which will work itself out? How can you prevent some of these issues from occurring year after year?  Let us help.

Branches which are splayed open – not damaged but severely bent – can be caused by snow and ice weight during winter.  Some of these branches will bounce back on their own but some will need to be tied up or trimmed.  This can mostly be prevented by proper pruning techniques done at the appropriate time of year.

Defoliation or brown leaves of evergreens in winter (winter burn or scorch) is usually seen with broadleaf evergreen more than needle evergreens and it is caused by desiccation.  Desiccation is when moisture that the plant needs during the harsh winter months is lost due to the sunny/windy weather.  Unfortunately, the plant cannot derive the needed moisture from the frozen soil.  This is another problem that can be prevented with an anti-desiccant which would be applied in late fall/early winter.  An anti-desiccant treatment forms a protective wax-like layer which seals in moisture and helps retard winter dehydration.

De-icing may also cause leaf scorch.  De-icing damage can be caused by casual salting of the area near your landscape plants or from runoff from the roads that contain dissolved salts. This can be prevented by making sure the soil in these areas are heavy in nutrients to help the plants during the winter, planting more hardy plants that can handle the salt better, or being extra careful on salt distribution around your landscaped areas.

With some of these problems, the plant in spring will grow out these areas and new growth will come in.  In other cases, you might need some fertilization to strengthen the plant and give it the nutrients it needs to heal.  If the area is damaged and there is no new growth potential, the area will need to be trimmed.

Not sure what to do?  Not a problem – just call us and we will help.  

Designing Your Space

Since there is not a lot going on in February in regards to landscaping, this is the perfect time to start on ideas of what you want to do when spring arrives.  Start the process now!

Budget – come up with a budget on how much you wish spend on your landscaping this year.  Remember that your landscape adds to the value and beauty of your home.

Decide how long you expect to stay in your home.  Remember that if you are putting your home on the market, Curb Appeal makes a difference.  If you plan on staying in your home for a while, why not invest in the landscape and make it a place you want to surround yourself in. 

What would you want to do with the space you have?  There are so many options: 

• Foundation beds to add a flare to the house itself. 
• Privacy screen/hedge from neighbors. 
• Privacy nook for your own private time of relaxation.  
• Entertainment options – larger patio, greener/lusher lawn, a “picture” perfect place where everyone would enjoy – think of this as another room in your house.

What added features would you need?  Patio, walkway, wall, drainage?

Once you have worked on these steps, then it is time to decide on the design aspects.  Which plants, pavers, stones, trees, shrubs, annuals, mulch, etc. do you want to use?  What would grow well in the area you have chosen?  Is the area in shade? Does the area get water – is there a sprinkler system?  Is the area too wet? What is the soil in that area like? Realize that these are very important questions to allow your plants to grow. 

Next you should think of seasonal colors.  When designing an area, it isn’t just about how pretty all the plants are but, also, when they will be showing off their spark.  You will probably want to pick plants that “show off” at different times so that there is always seasonal interest.  Find out what plants flower in spring and which will flower in summer.  How will these plants look and react in fall and winter?  Which evergreens might look good in a specific area and how big will they get?

We are hoping that these questions will start you on the path to creating a beautiful yard that you will enjoy throughout the year. 

If you would like assistance, we have landscape design specialists who would be able to assist you.  We recommend scheduling soon so that all will be prepared ahead of time.  In that way, as soon as the warmer weather hits, we can make your designs come to life.

Employee of the Year - James Dinizo

It's not easy being the boss' son but that has not stopped James from learning everything he needs to know to be the best for our customers. 

James has his Bachelor's Degree in Landscape Design.  He had attended one year at the University of Northern Iowa where he had received a baseball scholarship and studied business.  He continued both baseball and business studies at St. Petersburg College.  He then came back to New Jersey and completed his degree in Landscape Design.
He is skilled not only in Landscape Design - including 3D design programs for landscapers and landscape architects, but also has extensive knowledge of New Jersey plant material, a Pesticide applicator's license and a New Jersey Fertilizer license.

When asked why he works at Truesdale he answered:

"I enjoy working outdoors, so landscaping is a good fit for me.  I like landscaping and I especially like the design aspect of landscaping because it allows me to take an area or portion of someone's home and create a beautiful space that they will be able to enjoy. Truesdale is a noble place to work because all of the employees really take pride in their work."

What are his interests outside of Truesdale?

"I have always enjoyed sports and physical activities. I took an extensive interest in the game of baseball.  In more recent days my hobbies include golf, softball and fishing."

What is his philosophy when it comes to plants and taking care of landscape?

"Basically, the answer is in the question:  Care.  It is not well known just how much care and attention living plants need to thrive.  Not everyone has a "green thumb" and that's where I can surely be of assistance.  Often landscapers will complete jobs with haste, neglecting certain aspects of plant life that need to be attended to. That is one of the reasons I love working for Truesdale.  I am able to take my time and make sure my work is done correctly."

And, lastly, what are his future plans?

"I plan to stay with Truesdale and continue to learn and master the landscaping field."

We are more than pleased to have James as part of the Truesdale Team and his willingness to continue learning more, his dedication to his clients, and his attitude are why he is this year's Employee of the Year.